THE nAKED DOG TRAINING HANDOUT
This document is an outline of what we covered in your training session. You can download the PDF file here. We recommend that you print these notes and place them around your home as helpful reminders, print out the signs for your door if necessary and reread the summary once a week during our two months together. Please don’t share this content with anyone who hasn’t done our training series as the notes are an essential part of our series and won’t be helpful or implemented properly out of the context of the sessions.
Important Dates
Please add these dates to your calendar - with an alert. It can be hard to measure progress day by day, but if you check in in two week increments it is easy to see how far you have come and feel motivated to stick with the program until you reach your goals.
Today: Our first session and the first day of your new life with your dog.
Two weeks: Start thinking about booking your second session.
Four weeks: This is the halfway mark. We should have completed our second session by now and you are halfway through Boot Camp.
Six weeks: First evaluation mark - Do I have my dream dog? Your final session should be booked by now and we can focus on what isn’t working well at this point
Eight weeks: Second evaluation- Do I have my dream dog? What still isn’t working well for you? Have we made a plan on how to continue addressing this? If not, mark your calendar for two more weeks and check in again. Be sure we have completed all our sessions before your series expires on this date.
The Naked Dog is available for continued support through your dog’s life. We also offer one hour follow up sessions for any more complicated issues. It’s important to us to be the last trainer you ever need to call and we are willing to keep working with you as long as you work with us.
Contents
Attention and Affection
Look
Only look at your dog during a deliberate interaction
Talk
Give only a command, correction, or reward
Touch
Use touch as a reward and initiate pet sessions
Talking to Your Dog
Commands
Ask, warn, tell when giving a command
Corrections
Increase pressure to get your dog’s attention
Rewards
Use your attention and affection as a reward
Reward the amount of effort your dog put in
Impulse Inhibition
Ask your dog to wait before getting something he wants
Set and enforce boundaries
Maintain a high standard for patience and good manners
Leadership Behavior
Always have a picture in mind of what you want
Adjust and guide till reality matches your vision
Put your own comfort and needs first
Give your dog the job of tuning into you and being a good teammate
Walks
Start when the leash goes on
Wait at thresholds
Walk in a heel, nose up, ear to your leg
Maintain slack unless giving a cue
Reward respectful walking with ‘sniff sniff’ time
Greet dogs calmly
Trick Training
One word for each concept
Reward the try
You can’t be wrong while learning
Practice close to or before meal time
Read our articles on come and fetch
Unloading from the car
Situate yourself first
Wait in front of the open door before getting out
Ask your dog to wait once he exits
BOOT CAMP
After your initial session, be prepared to stick to our recommendations and guidelines for at least six to eight weeks. Even though you will see many improvements in your dog’s behavior before then, or sometimes right away, it’s important to stick with our Boot Camp program for the full two months. This allows you to cement your new relationship dynamic and behavioral norms as well as allows your dog to understand that a permanent shift has occurred.
I believe every dog can be a perfect dog. What does that mean? A dog that is perfect for me may not look like a dog that is perfect for you. Think about how you would like your dog to be and what is important to you. After six weeks, check in with how your dog is doing on each of these goals. If you aren’t there yet, continue with the program in two week increments, checking in to see if you are happy with your dog’s behavior in all areas. When you have the perfect dog, begin to incrementally add in privileges as a reward and systematically relax the rules and boundaries one at a time. If you are disciplined and move slowly during this phase, you will be able to tell what works for your dog and what doesn’t, similar to an elimination diet for food allergies.
Watch your dog’s behavior and be prepared to experiment with what works best for your dog. If at any time you notice a regression in your dog’s attitude or behavior, reread these notes and go back to the Boot Camp program. Within a few days or weeks your dog should regain his or her balanced mentality. If that doesn’t happen, please reach out! We continue to support our clients even after their series is complete.
SPEAKING THE SAME LANGUAGE
Many of the issues we have in our lives with our dogs are rooted in a basic miscommunication. Seeing things through our own cultural lens, we misinterpret many of our dog’s behaviors and they misinterpret ours.
Humans express love by being physically affectionate, saying nice things, and prioritizing the needs and desires of our loved ones. Dog’s observe these behaviors and don’t interpret it as loving. Instead, some of these actions can look a lot like calming signals that one dog sends to another to show that they aren’t a threat. When we accidentally convince our dog that they are above us in the hierarchy, they can become obnoxious or anxious.
On the other hand, we can interpret some of our dog’s behaviors as loving, when they are really quite rude. A dog barging into my personal space and demanding attention can be as rude as a neighbor coming into your house without knocking and going through your kitchen to borrow a cup of sugar instead of asking. Just like a good neighbor, I want my dog to knock and give me the option to say yes or no.
ATTENTION AND AFFECTION
LOOK:
Eye contact is common in primates, but not canines. Our dogs are incredibly sensitive to the pressure of our gaze. By resting our eyes on them, looking at them too often, or practicing ‘loving gaze,’ we teach our to be numb to our attention or even to think we are looking to them for cues on what to do. As a general rule, my dog should look at me more than I look at him.
We can shift this dynamic by only looking at your dog when you are having a deliberate interaction or need to add additional pressure to a command or correction. This way when you look at your dog he will be attentive because he knows something is going to be asked of him. We still need to keep tabs on our dog, especially during this training phase. Use your peripheral vision or bounce your eyes around the room to check in on your dog without triggering a reaction from him.
TALK:
Only talk to your dog when you are giving a command, correction or reward. Remember, the reward has to be for something. Limit the number of words you use when communicating with your dog and make sure that each word has only one meaning.
Dogs are non-verbal, so try to use your body language, energy and small sounds to communicate in addition to giving a simple and clear verbal command. I try to use words only when I want a specific action and repeat them when I sense my dog is confused or losing focus. Only say your dog’s name to get his attention and be sure a command is coupled with it.
TOUCH:
Reserve petting your dog as a reward for good behavior. Making our touch a reserved resource means we won’t be dependent on treats to motivate and reward our dogs.
Don’t reward your dog when he solicits attention. Wait for a time he is calm and not focused on you, call him over to the edge of your personal space, as him to sit and then pet him for 3-5 seconds as a reward. Ideally, my dog accepts when I chose to end the petting session and doesn’t push for more.
Instead of using petting as a form of passive bonding, focus on more proactive bonding, like trick training, going on walks together, or the joy of sharing space together.
COMMANDS, CORRECTIONS AND REWARDS
COMMANDS:
Once your dog knows a command, implement this three level training scale to ensure your dog completes the action. I don’t nag at my dog by repeating the same command in the same tone if it isn’t working. I gradually change and increase the pressure I am creating for my dog in order to create an unpleasant consequence for ignoring me. This is only for when my dog knows and understands a command. When you are teaching a command, it should always be sweet, encouraging and guiding.
Level 1 - Ask
When I first ask my dog for something, I want to be clear that it is a command, but still pleasant to hear. Make sure you have your dog’s attention before giving a command! Assume an ‘on the job’ body language, but keep it soft. We always want to begin with the lightest level of stimulation that we think will get a response.
Level 2 - Warn
If your dog ignores you, change your facial expression, body language, voice, and energy to get your dog’s attention.
-Stern, serious expression with furrowed brow
-Make your body bigger, broader and tip forward at the hips
-Words should be sharp, deeper, more gruff and enunciated
-Shift your energy so it is more serious and more intense. Tighten your core muscles, cultivate a seriousness and intensity, and make it feel as if a storm cloud just blew into the room
*Be sure to release these body cues when your dog complies so he knows he got the right answer! Shake out your shoulders, take a breath, and seem surprised by the energy that just overcame you. Letting this energy go at the right time is as important as applying it.
Level 3 - Tell
The goal is to create an undesirable consequence for your dog while pulling their attention back to you. If you are having to go to this level frequently, it isn’t being done effectively. Your voice should boom and hit the ceiling in addition to amplifying your other cues. At this point you will leash your dog or touch them to help them complete the command. If I ask for something, it has to happen and if you don’t listen, you lose your freedom.
CORRECTIONS:
On A Walk
Corrections are done on through leash as well as with our body language, voice and energy to ensure we keep our dog mentally engaged during walks. The earlier you correct a problem, the lighter the touch needed. Always try to use the least pressure possible, but be willing to use as much pressure as is necessary.
Level 1
Take the slack out of the leash and gently ‘touch’ your dog when their attention starts to wander or to give a ‘turning signal’ pulse on the leash. This lets my dog know a distraction is coming or something will be changing in your pace or course. If I am holding my leash with slack, having my thumb and forefinger pinched and my fingers fanned out, all I will have to do is close my fingers to pulse, tap or massage the leash.
Level 2
Here I will move my arm from 135° to 90° with my thumb pinched and my fingers closed into a fist to create tension on the leash. Using your bicep, pop the leash with as much pressure as your dog is pulling on you with or enough pressure to get his attention. The pop should be quick and sharp - this cue can be repeated till they shift their focus, but never hold pressure on the leash for more than a fraction of a second. Try not to use your tricep or let your hand float behind you. Keep your wrist straight and your arm strong, but soft.
Level 3
This correction should make a big impression on your dog. Become a loud presence in your voice, body, movement and energy as well as on the leash. A loud, unpleasant guttural goose or buzzer sound also will help get your dog’s attention back to you.
For correcting undesirable behaviors around the home, I recommend ignoring, dis-incentivizing then correcting. These corrections should be done absentmindedly, if possible, so our dog doesn’t learn that undesirable behavior is rewarded with attention, or at least not the kind of attention they were hoping for.
REWARDS:
A base level reward is to ignore your dog and have your energy be relaxed and happy. For a command my dog knows well, the reward can be that I’m no longer putting my attention on him and saying the word and my energy softens.
When gauging what kind of reward to give, I consider:
Does my dog know the command?
Are we in a familiar environment?
Are there distractions?
I want to reward how much effort it took my dog to complete the command. ‘Come’ or the execution of a new trick should always be a wonderful and exciting experience for your dog (happy energy, high pitched voice, happy clapping, pets and affection, high value treat).
IMPULSE INHIBITION
We have to help our dog build the muscle of self control by asking him to pause and wait before getting anything he wants. These are the small moments that build the foundation for being able to receive guidance in more exciting or reactive moments.
When my dog learns to calm himself down from an excited state to a calmer one, that is called ‘down regulation.’ I want my dog to understand that the way to get what he wants is to relax. The more often I ask my dog to do this in everyday life situations, the more self control he will be able to exercise in stimulating and novel situations. Always think about rewarding the mental state you want versus the impulsive, pushy, or excited one you don’t want.
Exercising impulse inhibition:
Correct impulsive or reactive behaviors like barking, jumping, or whining
Ask your dog to sit and wait before getting something he wants, such as going outside or being fed
Walk in a heel position instead of letting your dog lead or lag - nose or ear by your leg
Only let your dog stop to enjoy a smell or greet a dog or person on walk if he is first able to calmly pass by - I want to reward a willing attitude
Wait until your dog relaxes or shows he is willing to be patient before giving him what he wants (potty break/walk/dinner)
Your dog must be calm and wait when getting the leash on, passing through thresholds, getting in and out of the car, and before being greeted
Teach your dog ‘wait’ or ‘leave it’ by opening a hand with a treat and closing it when your dog goes to get it, only saying ‘take it’ when he is able to resist
Ask your dog to wait before getting in and out of the car or leaving the crate
When you put your dog’s food bowl down, don’t let him lunge for it. Ask him to wait until you can stand up and pause, then say ‘okay’
Wait and calm down before you throw the ball when playing fetch or let your dog off leash. In fetch my dog also has to ‘drop it’ on command to keep playing
Personal boundaries and deference behaviors:
No leaning on humans legs or standing on or laying on human feet
Maintain a 6-12 inch bubble around your body, about the size of your wingspan
Ask your dog to stay off the bed, furniture, out of the front of the car, kitchen and bathroom, to not follow you from room to room, and to move out of your way when you walk by
Don’t give a dog attention when they solicit it by pawing, jumping, whining, or pushing into your personal space
During pet sessions, work in some desensitizing to keep your dog used to be handled in different and not always normal or pleasant ways, focusing on the ears, mouth, genital area, tail, and paws
LEADERSHIP BEHAVIOR
As a leader, it’s important to always have a clear mental picture of how you want things to look in every moment. This is so you can evaluate your dog’s behavior, give guidance to show him what you want and apply pressure as needed to make sure reality matches you vision for any given moment.
Since you know what you want, it’s important to communicate that clearly to your dog. I am always keeping tabs on or communicating with my dog, whether passively or actively. It’s important to give your dog lots of small cues to help him navigate the world. When my dog and I are approaching a crossroads, whether that be a distraction on a walk or preparing my dog to receive a command, I give him a preemptive cue instead of hoping he stays tuned into me. I don’t want to give him the space to evaluate the situation for himself and making his own choice about how to respond. The more I guide my dog by letting him know what is about to happen and what I want from him the more my dog will look to me for guidance. I call these small touches to let my dog know that something is coming a ‘turn signal.’ My dog isn’t psychic so this preparation for a command is fair and important.
It’s easy to go on autopilot for certain behaviors, letting your dog do what you usually want him to, like going out into the yard or jump into your car. By going on autopilot here, we are missing out on important training moments. I want to teach my dog to pause and look to me for a cue instead of making his own choice about what to do. This is especially important for waiting to get out of the car, as being used to jumping out impulsively could lead to a life threatening situation. Be sure to mix up your routine by stopping and waiting in unexpected places or asking for a command at various moments in your day or on your outings. Switch it up! Dogs do best with varied routines.
Our dogs don’t respect us just because we love them. They evaluate our behavior and take it at face value. If you want your dog to believe you are the leader, he has to see you put yourself first. It’s okay to take care of your own needs when you get home instead of immediately attending to your dog. This has the additional benefit of allowing your dog time to down regulate so you are not rewarding an excited state with getting a greeting or opening the crate.
Our dogs have amazing lives and we really do meet all their needs. Most of our dogs have grown accustomed to instant gratification. This is lots of fun in the short term, but ultimately diminishes our dogs ability to cope with life’s frustrations. It’s okay if my dog can’t have exactly what he wants in the exact moment he wants it. That happens to me every day and I’m okay! In fact, learning patience and building the muscle of impulse inhibition helps give your dog’s frustration tolerance so he has the ability to practice polite and desirable behaviors even in highly stimulating situations.
WALK GUIDELINES
Going for a walk should be my idea. If my dog is soliciting a walk, I will wait until he is calm, then initiate the walk process.
Especially in Texas, be sure the pavement isn’t too hot for a dog’s paws. You should be able to hold the back of your hand on the ground for 10 seconds without it being uncomfortable.
I won’t chase my dog around with the leash. If he can’t sit calmly for me to put the leash on, I put the leash down and try again once he calms down.
In order to work, the leash must be positioned properly. The leash should be as high as possible on my dogs neck, right behind the ears and right behind the back of the jaw. Pull down any extra neck skin or long hair to make sure the leash is flush on the neck. Tighten the leather stopper so only one finger can fit in to the loop to ensure the leash doesn’t have room to slip down.
Because the leash is positioned on a sensitive part of the neck, be diligent to not hold steady pressure. Creating slack when my dog is doing what I want and adding a pulsing tension to get his attention or deliver a correction.
From the moment the leash goes on, the walk begins. My dog should walk calmly to the door without pulling me. It’s okay to go back and forth a few times to get it right. This sets the tone for the walk and those steps count, even inside.
I position my dog so I am between him and the door, say ‘wait,’ and then open the door. I like to wait in front of an open door till my dog relaxes. When I step out, I ask my dog to wait again near the doormat so I can close and lock the door without being pulled on or having my dog lose focus and mental start the walk without me.
It’s important to project leadership energy from the beginning of the walk. I have a vision of the route I want to take, how I want my dog to behave. I exude a calm, confident energy, walking with a sense of purpose and direction instead of wandering aimlessly or letting my dog guide us. Picking visual points to walk to will help you stay on target. The great thing about having plans is that they can always change! Adjust as you go as your circumstances change.
On the walk, I need to be present and attentive, scanning the environment for possible distractions. While inwardly I am very aware of my dog, watching my dog in my peripheral vision and feeling my dog through the leash, outwardly I want my dog to be glancing up to me and witness me observing the environment. This has the benefit of giving me a chance to see a potential distraction before or at the same time that my dog does.
I ask my dog to stay within one foot of my knee or ankle, ideally keeping his nose or ear in line with my leg. If my dog pulls on the leash, I swing my foot out to block them in front or touch their rump, do the lightest leash correction I think will get a response, or use ‘weird walking’ techniques (changing direction, walking in circles, going backwards, changing pace, stopping and starting). It’s very important to give my dog the job of staying in a heel and show them where I want them. I do this by applying pressure if they go out of the heel zone.
If I see a distraction (dog, bike, jogger, child) coming or sense my dog is getting distracted or activated, I do a level one correction, taking the slack out of the leash or using a light, bouncing pressure to bring his attention back to me. The earlier I can catch a distraction, the lighter touch I can use. This tells my dog ‘I see that too and it isn’t a problem’ so you can walk on.
If my dog starts being reactive, I stay calm and continue walking, applying a variety of corrections to see what combination of cues at what pressure will yield a result. These include touching the leash, foot taps, my voice, body language, movements, and energy. If I were to stop walking, my dog gets to focus on what is distracting him and becomes more reactive. This is counterintuitive so you will need to retrain yourself.
My dog only gets to greet people or dogs if he is willing or able to calmly walk past. Early in the leash training process, I may wait until I pass another dog and loop back if my dog is able to walk by calmly or ask the other owner to wait. If my dog can stay calm on the approach and both dogs (and owners) look willing to allow a greeting, I will approach the other dog if my dog can do so calmly and without pulling.
Our dogs have amazing noses! They do not need to drag their nose as they walk or dive-bomb a smell to get a good whiff. If my dog drags me towards a smell, I do not reward this behavior by stopping.
Throughout the walk, I note when my dog seems like he wants to pull over. I’ll ask him to continue walking nicely, then offer him a spot to ‘sniff sniff’ or ‘go potty’. My dog is still not allowed to drag me during the sniff time, but we can walk together nicely to find a spot of interest. I want him to enjoy nature and the world outside my house. Just like working hours, you are on the job when you are clocked in and can take time to do the fun stuff out of working hours.
When we get back to the house, I ask my dog to sit and wait at the door and allow me to remove the leash before I release him and the walk ends.
Walking in this way gives your dog the job of staying tuned into you and in a heel, even with distractions. This kind of walk will be more tiring than a fast but distracted one because it provides mental exercise in addition to the physical - just like how a long day at work with little movement can be exhausting. It also reinforces a calm, respectful mindset and creates opportunities to practice impulse inhibition. It isn’t about preventing your dog from enjoying what the world outside the house has to offer as much as being sure that we are practicing the good manners we need and reinforcing a calm, obedient mindset instead of an impulse driven one.
LIST OF COMMON COMMANDS
Sit - get your booty on the ground
Down - lay down on your belly, ideally with hips flopped
Off - get your paws, body or attention off furniture, people, dogs, or whatever it is on
Up up - jump or put your feet up on this
Kisses - lick the hand, useful for puppies who are mouthy
Paw/shake - raise your paw
Beg/sit pretty - balance on hind legs
Roll over - when laying down, roll to the other side
Crawl - wiggle/army crawl to me keeping your belly on the ground
Leave it/Take it - don’t go for it (usually the treat)/ take the treat
Touch - touch your nose to my hand
—
Good (command)! - marks a positive behavior or correct response to command
Hey! - breaks a distraction to get their attention back, also used as a correction if they have ignored a command
No! - stop doing what you are doing
Bad! - I don't want you to do that behavior. Don't do it now or again in the future.
Easy - (sing-songy) pay attention and slow down and bring your energy down
Settle - especially for a puppy, calm yourself
Out - get out of here or don't be where you are or stop doing what you are doing
Back - back up or get out of my space
Move - move your body out of my path
Leave it - drop what you are chewing or leave that object, dog, or person alone
Drop - drop what is in your mouth, usually so I can throw it
—
Wait - pause and wait for a release or further instructions, pay attention to me (eg doorways)
Stay - you stay stationary while I walk away (not the same as wait)
Okay/free - release, you can change positions or do what you want again
Let's go - we walk off together
Come! - I am stationary, you come to me
All the way - come all the way back to me and touch me
This way - you are going the wrong way, change course & pay attention to me
Heel up - walk to my side
On the trail - get back on the trail
Leash - hold still so the leash can be put on
Fix your leash - hop one foot so the leash comes out from between your legs
Pick up - for puppies or small dogs, hold still and brace yourself so I can pick you up
—
Outside - let's go to the door, usually to potty
Wanna go potty? - Do you need to pee?
Potty, potty? - I strongly suggest you pee if possible
Notes Summary
Attention and Affection
Look
Only look at your dog during a deliberate interaction
Talk
Give only a command, correction, or reward
Touch
Use touch as a reward and initiate pet sessions
Talking to Your Dog
Commands
Ask, warn, tell when giving a command
Corrections
Increase pressure to get your dog’s attention
Rewards
Use your attention and affection as a reward
Reward the amount of effort your dog put in
Impulse Inhibition
Ask your dog to wait before getting something he wants
Set and enforce boundaries
Maintain a high standard for patience and good manners
Leadership Behavior
Always have a picture in mind of what you want
Adjust and guide till reality matches your vision
Put your own comfort and needs first
Give your dog the job of tuning into you and being a good teammate
Walks
Start when the leash goes on
Wait at thresholds
Walk in a heel, nose up, ear to your leg
Maintain slack unless giving a cue
Reward respectful walking with ‘sniff sniff’ time
Greet dogs calmly
Trick Training
One word for each concept
Reward the try
You can’t be wrong while learning
Practice close to or before meal time
Read our articles on come and fetch
Unloading from the car
Situate yourself first
Wait in front of the open door before getting out
Ask your dog to wait once he exits
Boot Camp Checklist
Stick to boot camp recommendations
Limit your attention and affection so you can use it as a reward
Only look during deliberate interactions
Only talk when giving a command, correction or reward
Only pet when you want to reward your dog’s behavior and energy
Keep your dog off furniture and out of your personal space
Get my dog’s attention before any interaction or direction
Start giving a commands very lightly
Don’t repeat the same command in the same way more than twice
Use your energy, body language, voice and leash to get your dog’s attention
Use the level of pressure needed to get your dog’s attention, then relax and release
Create a consequence for ignoring a command
Only reward behaviors you want to encourage
Ask your dog to be calm, patient and walk in a heel
Take moments throughout the day to practice impulse inhibition
Wait at doorways, before feeding and before getting attention
Reward a calm, patient dog
Give your dog a job by always having a picture of what you want in your mind
Put yourself first, meet your own needs before your dogs
Sample Signs
Hello!
Please ring the bell once
and give us a moment
We are training our dog!
Thanks for your patience.
Hello!
We are training our dog.
Please try not to look at him, talk to him
or pet him until he settles down.
A calm dog is a good dog!
Hello!
We are training our dog.
Please try not to look at her, talk to her,
or pet her until she settles down.
A calm dog is a good dog!