Dog training articles that offers tips and insights from your dog's point of view
Dog Holiday Prep Guide
Preparing our dogs for what they will experience between mid November and after New Years is often not what people think of when it comes to the holidays. WE know that this is the season for large gatherings, family visits, vacations and special meals, but our dogs have no clue that anything is changing aside from the weather. On top of our normal routine we now have gift shopping, house decorating and travel packing so sometimes our dogs get shorted the outdoor time that we had time and sunlight for since the end of last winter, making the holiday changes even harder for them.
This article will help you to put yourself in your dog’s shoes so you can understand their needs. Plan on devoting some of your awareness and a bit of time and effort to dog prep so you can ensure their holiday is merry and bright.
Some of us will be staying home and maybe popping out for a meal, which requires little dog prep aside from making sure they are nice and tired before you leave and keeping your outing to six hours tops.
For those who are:
Hosting a gathering or housing out of towners
Traveling with their dog
Leaving their dog with someone they know or at a facility
I wanted to offer my expert insight.
As I started writing this guide I realized that no matter the situation, the core pillars of my advice was the same.
How cool is that?
I divided this article by topic for a reason: because I don’t want you to just skim to the scenario you are doing this year. I would love for dog owners to read the entire article and develop a complete understanding of how each training tool applies to each dog scenario. Chances are you will be in each of these situations someday, and possibly around another dog in all of these situations next week. I’d like you to be able to advocate not just for your own dog, but to be a good steward for all dogs, perhaps by sharing some of these tips with the dog owners you meet.
Let’s break it down:
EXERCISE IS ALWAYS KEY
As the old adage says, a tired dog is a good dog. Exhausting your dog isn’t a complete training solution, but I will tell you that I ask every dog owner I talk to on the phone how much exercise their dog gets and 80% of them aren’t getting enough. If we aren’t giving these natural athletes a healthy and appropriate outlet for their energy it’s harder for them to be calm, sit still, thoughtfully engage with their environment and exercise self control.
Most dogs would thrive on a minimum of 30-120 minutes of exercise once or twice a day. Yup. Depending on age, breed and fitness some dogs need upwards of 4 hours of exercise a day so choose your pup carefully.
Exercise is a stellar first line of defense when it comes to changes in routine like big events, new environments, or longer than normal stays at home alone (just be sure to monitor your dog’s post activity water intake and time your outing, their drinking, your departure time and how likely their bladder is to be empty). If walks are tough then put my eCourse on your holiday wish list!
🎉 Are you hosting this holiday?
Your dog will probably be excited that new people are staying with you or coming over, which is totally understandable. The best best best thing you can do for your dog is exercise!! A tired dog will still be excited, but more likely to express it as a happy wag than non-stop jumping or zoomies around they room. They will settle faster and be more likely to be in a mindset where they can hear your instructions and complete your commands. Go on a double long walk before guests arrive while you are frantically cleaning or cooking? YUP!
Lay out some warm clothes the night before so you can get up for sunrise and squeeze in that longer walk
Add a backpack with a water bottle or soup can on each side so you can get a little more muscle engagement for each step
Drive to a hiking trail to add some uneven terrain to the mix
Remember: A mentally engaged walk will be just as tiring (if not more) than letting your dog run wild! As for sections of “heel” between sniff breaks, add in “weird walking” and changes of pace, throw in a few tricks or commands every now and then and ask them to “wait” right next to you instead of diving to sniff. This will all help tired your dog out and get them in that mentally engaged mindset that we need to receive company calmly.
Simply too busy? I get that. Know thyself and start calling around now to your regular dog walker, neighbor friends, friends with dogs of their own or who are fans of your dog and find someone to help you out! Know that dog trainers and anyone who boards will likely be busy, but if you are a current/past client (shout out to dog owners who build a relationship with a trainer!) they may be able to help you out. Yes, it feels weird to ask someone to work on a holiday, but some of us don’t have family around, don’t celebrate for whatever reason and would be HAPPY for the chance to earn some extra cash. I’m a huge fan of local Buy Nothing groups and there may be someone in your ‘hood who loves dogs and could use some fresh air who can take yours out for an hour.
✈️ Are you traveling by car or plane?
I start exercising any dog that is going to fly two days before the trip and make it a priority to get them out for double the amount of time I usually do at minimum. Is this a bit of an inconvenience? Yup! Is my dog’s comfort a priority? Also yes, so I’m happy to do it. Take breaks every 2-4 hours when driving, ideally at a park or trail so your dog can eliminate and stretch their legs. Be careful letting them drink as much water as they like because they are going to have to hold it again! This is another reason I don’t let dogs “run wild” to “get their energy out” at pit stops.
When you land in a new place getting your dog out should be the first thing you do. (Pro tip: I make peeing a prerequisite to any new door opening when I’m taking my dog places. Only dogs with empty bladders get to enter new houses!) Your dog doesn’t know that you are excited to visit with whoever you came to see or tired from the journey. Drop your bags, tell mom to put on her shoes and catch up on a walk before you settle in for human time. If it’s dark when you arrive then make sure you have a reflective leash and vest for you and/or your dog or get an LED leash for night walks. This gear is readily available and removes the “it’s too dark” excuse. We gotta do right by our dogs and get our butts out there with them!
Make sure that your dog gets an extra special outing before any group gatherings. Being in a new place is exciting enough, but going somewhere new with a lot of people and other pets or being in a semi-new environment that becomes suddenly full one day will never not be exciting. Get them out for a good walk in the morning. Take them into the yard (go with them!) for potty and play breaks. Grab your favorite person and ask them to join you to dip out on a walk or hike for some 1-1 time. Check the meal timing with your host and plan your dog outing accordingly. Meeting your dog’s needs is one of the most important things you can do everyday, but especially on a holiday.
🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?
Your border -professional or not- will thank you for having a tired dog dropped off. Just because you are paying them doesn’t mean you can shirk dog care for that day. I always talked to clients and made sure they could drop their dog before my midday outing. Otherwise they knew they needed to get a walk in before dropping off. A dog whose exercise needs have been even moderately met is more likely to engage with a new environment and the humans or animals in it in a more thoughtful and less explosively excited way. You only have one chance to make a first impression and you can set your dog up for a crappy stay if they come in crazy. Owners are always say saying goodbye, even a temporary one, and a walk together on the day you are separating is really the best way to bond and share the present moment. (be sure to check out my article on proper “goodbye” etiquette before you drop your dog!)
Let your sitter know how much exercise your dog usually gets a day and BE HONEST! I have had so many owners lie up and tell me their aspirational level of activity instead of how much they really walk their dog. I figure out pretty quickly they fibbed when the dog is exhausted mid-outing, sore and losing weight, which is super unfair to both sitter and dog. Be honest about your normal routine of what kind of activity you do for how long and usually at what times of day. Give an honest range and let them know the minimum they can get away with before they can expect behavior problems. Even I get pretty annoying when I’m sitting around more than I’m used to!
EVERY DOG SHOULD BE COMFORTABLE IN THE CRATE
This isn’t just one of those “dog trainer” things for no reason. The crate should be a comfortable and safe place for your dog because it’s almost inevitable that they will be in one at some point in their life whether you think it’s necessary or not. Let me explain why the crate is key this holiday season (and here is a guide to how to get them acclimated, which you should start ASAP)
If you don’t regularly use the crate you can’t just shove them in out of the blue. Start now and crate this week at bedtime, for midday naps and when you go out. Make the crate a “special treat” place and give them a bully stick or marrow bone or frozen kong that they can only have in the crate. Feed meals in there so it’s not just the room they get closed in. Drag the crate around the house and have them chill in the crate in your office while you work or in the living room while you watch tv at night.
🎉 Are you hosting this holiday?
You want to enjoy your day on top of the responsibilities of preparing the food, cleaning the house, getting your table instaworthy and making sure uncle Joe doesn’t drink too much or talk about politics. You already devoted an hour or two to getting your dog out and now people are starting to arrive, but there isn’t a spare adult who can be trusted to keep them on leash and ensure they are calm and polite to each new arrival. That makes the crate is the perfect place for them to be!!
Make sure the crate is in a quiet room that no one will go into. Print out a “Do not enter” sign for the door. Consider getting a white noise machine or setting up an old phone or your computer to jam those sweet white noise tunes for them. Consider purchasing a DAP adapter to bring those chill pheramones into the room. If your dog is tired they should have no problem taking a nap away from the hustle and bustle, especially if you disable your doorbell or hang a “come on in” sign on the front door.
Once you are on top of your party prep and ‘to do’s’ you can bring your dog out on leash for a quick potty break and some visiting, but consider putting them away again before the meal begins. Keep reading the rest of this article for more on that!
✈️ Are you traveling?
While I don’t crate in the car, many owners choose to and it can be a safe and relaxing space for a dog to ride (as long as the bedding you choose doesn’t make them too hot!). Any dog on a plane will need to be well acclimated to a crate or carrier and it’s not too late to start! I got Arrow the beach dog comfortable in a crate in less than two weeks and you can see how in my course Two Weeks To Trained.
I always traveled with a crate for Harley because of her separation anxiety. It gave me huge peace of mind to know that she was somewhere familiar no matter where we went - her crate! The crate also kept her safe from getting into anything that could choke her, make her bleed, poison her or fall on her. It was a relief to know the house was safe from any potential chewing, clawing, peeing or pooing. Personally I would never leave a dog free in a house they weren’t acclimated to, which means 3-4 days of being with them 24/7. It’s much easier to bring home with you and travel with a fold up wire crate.
Flying or don’t have room in the car? I got you! You can buy one wherever you go because they are almost always readily available and super cheap used on Craigslist or FB Marketplace. All it takes is a rag, some bleach water or all purpose cleaner and a few carabiners to double lock the latches for you to be crate ready! I also buy a sheet (not blanket!) to cover the crate and a few towels (not fuzzy blankets!) for bedding at Goodwill. You can be set up for dog safety for as little as $30.
I highly recommend against leaving your dog alone somewhere new without crating them. It’s just not worth the risk to their health and safety or a huge ass bill for damages the crate would have prevented.
🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?
I boarded dogs in my home and any dog who wasn’t crate trained was automatically a “board and train” and would cost 60% more per night. To be in a new environment AND be getting crate trained was stressful for everyone involved and eventually I stopped working with any dogs who hadn’t done training with me.
If you are leaving your dog at a facility they will likely be in a crate or kennel and not being conditioned to those containers will create a lot of added and unnecessary stress.
If you are boarding “in home” with someone who takes multiple dogs be VERY wary if they say they don’t crate as a selling point. That means that overnight or if they leave a group of dogs who don’t know each other are loose and unattended, which, worse case scenario, can result in a death or trip to the emergency vet.
If you are leaving a dog with a friend who doesn’t have dogs, their house may not be dog proof, meaning that when they are out or sleeping your dog can get into something they shouldn’t. Their window set up may be different and your dog could claw at blinds to get a better view of a passer-by out front or squirrel out back. They could have food where they thought it was out of reach, but your dog decides they want to try jumping on a counter for the first time. Maybe their door doesn’t latch the same and your dog figures out how to paw the handle and gets out. Why worry about the “what ifs” when you can just send your pup with their crate from home and enjoy your trip?
If your friend does have a dog, even one who your dog knows well, two dogs is different than one and the unexpected should be considered. A fight could break out over food if the new dog decides a trash can looks tippable. The dogs could egg each other on and have a BLAST dissecting a couch or chair. The host dog could get possessive over a toy or water bowl or bone that got buried or forgotten under a couch. A dog doesn’t need a history of these behaviors - it only takes one time for it to happen for the first time. You can ask that your dog be crated in a room with a closed door when no one is home. Let them know ahead of time and set up the crate yourself so it’s no hassle to them. They also may not have considered these potential dangers. After having watched HUNDREDS of dogs in my home I’ve seen it all so please heed my ‘worst case scenario’ warnings and just crate for dog’s sake!
LEASHES WORK INDOORS, TOO
Are you unsure how your dog is going to respond? Worried they will be nervous or over excited? The leash is one of the most underutilized tools because people think of it only being used for outside. Keep that baby on! At least until your dog is super chill and you feel confident about their being comfortable and making good choices.
I keep dogs on leash until they are dead calm and totally used to the environment. You may have your dog on leash next to you all night. You may decide to crate them instead of letting them free. You may let them off and put them back on again. You could leash them for the meal and make sure you sit on the corner seat so they can sit next to you. Maybe you tether them to a heavy piece of furniture at least 15’ from the table (just make sure you can stop them from barking or whining!). You might grab the leash when the kids start playing or if they can’t help themselves from getting underfoot during the post-meal football scrimmage.
If your dog is nervous, leash them.
Too excited? Leash.
Not listening? On the leash!
🎉 Are you hosting this holiday?
80% of your guests don’t want to be jumped on or listen to you yell at your dog in the first .02 seconds they are in your home and the other 20% are silly. Jumping isn’t a compliment and while your sister may love it, your toddler nephew, injured aunt or elderly neighbor can be hurt or traumatized and have their day ruined. Read my article on greeting guests and schedule a ‘dog training cocktail party’ this weekend. All you have to do is buy two bottles of wine, leash your well exercised dog and follow the instructions in the article.
Even if you just use the leash day of you can help your dog learn that they can greet guests only when all four feet are on the ground and they aren’t barking or frantically pulling towards them. If they can’t figure that out, call me the Monday after Thanksgiving! There is a simple fix.
✈️ Are you traveling?
Make sure your tired and pottied dog stays on the leash when you enter someone’s house. The same way you shouldn’t run from room to room inspecting your host’s possessions that is TOTALLY unnecessary for your dog to do, too. Have your dog sit next to you when you come in and ask people not to greet them until they are calm. Take them on leash into the backyard to sniff around before letting them off, especially if you have a boy dog and your host has outdoor furniture.
If your host has a dog, introduce them by going for a short walk together instead of in the doorway, living room or backyard. Dog Dating: How to Pick the Right Playmate If they have a cat, keep your dog on leash the whole time. Whether or not they are ‘cat friendly’ a new cat can not translate as a friend and no one wants to have a cat funeral this holiday.
Leashing your dog isn’t cruel. After all, you already read the beginning of this article and your dog is going to be dead tired. It can be really loving to keep them on leash and let them know where and how to be. Then they get to rest next to you knowing that if you move they will feel the leash jingle and wake up. Truly!! Your dog will rest easier on leash.
🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?
Don’t let them bomb into a new house and frantically smell all the smells. Let the new environment play second fiddle to the clear guidance you are giving them to sit, stay close, but not too close and wait next to you without pulling on leash. A calm introduction into a new place will set everyone there up for success. You want to pass the leash off to the new handler, not make them chase your dog down the moment you close the door.
FOOD CAN CAUSE FIGHTS
For real, food is one of the biggest danger zones for dogs. Not only does it totally change the dog dynamic and cause fights, it can lead to dogs jumping on or nipping at kids, choking on bones, pushing a chocolate cake off the counter then eating it along with the shards of broken glass from the pan it was in so you need to spend the rest of your day force feeding your dog cotton balls covered in peanut butter and looking for signs of intestinal punctures or poisoning. Yup, that’s a true story (and luckily not mine!).
No matter your holiday plans, it’s good practice everyday of the year to:
Never feed a dog off your plate or while you are eating
Ask your dog to stay “out” of your personal space and not bark, whine or stare into your soul so deeply they can see every meal your past lives have had while you eat
Teach the “place” or “go to your bed” command so you can send them away if they are annoying you
Be able to separate dogs who seem to be competing for closeness to that precious resource
Have a “no dogs under the chair or table” rule, especially if there are more than one of them
Don’t forget that eating food outside of their regular diet because it’s a special occasion can cause some especially gross poos and a festive trip to the emergency vet, which will be busy because not everyone will have read this article and costs exponentially more than a regular vet if you haven’t been.
Foods that are fatty (like the turkey skin you pushed to the edge of your plate) salty (like, well, everything) or sweet (everything else) can be dangerous for your dog. Cooked bones can splinter and puncture a dog’s intestines or choke them. Bread, nuts, nutmeg, alcohol, garlic, onion and dairy are all no-no’s. If you’d like to BYO can of pumpkin or green beans or peas to add something special to your dog’s food then go for it! Once it has oil, butter or salt on it, it’s a no go.
🎉 Are you hosting this holiday?
Your tired dog who isn’t on leash or crated should be able to respond to the “out” command from the kitchen, serving area, dining table or lap of person eating a cheese cracker on the couch instantly. If they can’t, then they need to be on leash or crated. Think how much more you will enjoy your meal and guests if you aren’t worried about where your dog is or what they are doing?
Remember that dog training is handler specific so even though your dog doesn’t jump on you or beg you for food, the same won’t be true of a child or your guest who already gave them excessive attention.
Also remember that humans are harder to train and even though you ask them not to feed your dog, they don’t see the harm in sneaking them a few bites of food. Crating your dog or having them on leash next to you ensures a merry meal for all!
✈️ Are you traveling?
As a good house guests you may choose to leave your dog crated where you are staying or in a quiet room. Since they are exhausted they won’t mind and won’t know what they are missing. If you really want your dog with you and don’t think they’d mind the crowds, be mindful of the space, other animals and be very realistic about their food manners. You may think it’s cute when they slither up the couch to steal the kernel of popcorn from your fingers but if you don’t know the guestlist where you are going chances are someone there won’t find their bite stealing as charming.
If you are visiting a home with another dog, ask their owner to make sure that all food bowls, treats, bone and special toys are picked up and put away before you get there. My dog would ignore a bully stick for weeks then run to it the moment another dog came over to get it before they could and trot off with it or happily start munching it in front of them, tauntingly till I took it away and put it on top of the fridge (a super spot for dog safety). All it takes is ONE first time incident for a dog to be a resource guarder so I have learned it’s better to have no resources to be guarded.
🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?
Ask that your friend not feed them human food and if there is more than one dog present then send them this article. When I would eat with a house full of dogs I would make sure they were all 5-10’ from me and a few feet apart from each other. I never left anything on a coffee table if I was leaving the room and I never let any of them think they had any sort of seniority when it came to special resources. I would feed dogs one at a time in the kitchen or put bowls down in crates or in separate rooms and watch them while they ate, then pick up all the bowls immediately.
Your friend may be used to their dog never inspecting human plates on the coffee table, but having a second dog present can change things quickly. It’s best for us humans to make sure we are practicing good food manners as we ask dogs to practice them, too.
THE BEST OWNERS HAVE BOUNDARIES
I think part of the reason so many of us struggle with dogs is that we are uncomfortable being clear. We don’t want to tell someone when their dog is making us or our dog uncomfortable. We don’t want to be seen as fussy when we give a stranger or friend, guest or family member instructions on our training protocol. On top of that, people don’t take well to receiving instruction and are likely to snap or ignore us, which brings up a secondary conversation about respecting boundaries.
I say LEAN IN. Relationships need to be based on honesty - us being honest about who we are, how we feel and what we want. If someone thinks you are fussy for asking for things to be a certain way with your dog, text them a link to this article or learn to shrug it off. You have an obligation to advocate for your dog. That may mean not bringing them to a certain place, around a certain person, or deciding when it’s time to put them up.
If you can ask people to help you with some (reasonable) training tasks in your effort to create the best dog possible, most will be willing to, but know your audience and come up with some elegant excuses.
I find the most important thing in sharing feedback is to be non-emotional and matter of fact. No one is psychic and knows what you want them to do or not do! Don’t assume anyone knows anything about dogs or your training protocol and is doing something intentionally to undermine you. I like to share tips or requests, cleanly and clearly.
“Oh hey, could you…”
“Actually I’m training my dog to…”
Or a favorite “My trainer insisted….” Throw me on under that bus, folks. I don’t mind!
The first step of having boundaries is being VERY clear on what’s important to you. What is your ideal situation? Play it out step by step. The more clearly you can visualize it and the more details you can think through the better. What are your “hell no’s”? Those are important to know, too! If it’s not a yes or a no then it’s in the gray area and can easily move into the yes or no pile depending how things are going.
I may request that company not to pet, talk to or stare at my dog when they first come in if they dog is jumping or excited. I definitely don’t want anyone feeding the dog, especially if there is more than one around. I may put a sign on the door that says to come in without ringing the bell or knocking. A “Do not enter” sign on the guestroom or laundry room helps prevent guests from disturbing your sleeping pup. You can ask your niece not to wrestle with your dog and ask your company with kids not to let the kids pet or play with the dog unless you are there watching.
For me, my “hell no’s” are jumping, whining, barking, pawing, zooming, knocking into people, furniture, not stopping what they are doing when asked, playing inside and taking what isn’t theirs. Again, having a tired dog on leash or in the crate is an easy win, but if you want to get jiggy with it and let your dog free, at least have a clear vision you can use to draw lines for your dog, the space, and the humans around you.
🎉 Are you hosting this holiday?
Don’t be afraid to put a note in the invitation/reminder email, a sign on the door or give guests a few instructions depending on what your dog needs, what will be most difficult for them, or what you are working on in your training. We can’t ask toooo much of our company, but we can ask a bit, particularly if something guests typically do typically goes badly for your dog.
Aside from general guidelines you may share to prevent issues, boundaries may also need to be expressed verbally and in the moment. Think about requests you have had to make in the past and practice some scripts in your imagination or with someone who won’t tease you about it.
“Turkey is relaxing on his bed right now. Let’s let him rest and you can play with him later when he gets up.”
“Sweet Potato is getting a little too excited. Let’s take a break from rough housing for a while. I don’t want her to keep playing and have something accidentally go wrong.”
“I think Gravy needs a break from the festivities. I’m going to put her in her crate for a nap.”
“Pumpkin seems a little restless, who wants to take a walk with us?”
“I’m not sure Stuffing is enjoying this type of play. Can you call Green Bean over to you so I can put her away for a little while?”
“Dumbstick wasn’t listening so he is going to sit next to me on the leash for a little while. You can pet him later though!”
✈️ Are you traveling?
Even if you are a guest in someone’s house you still have the right to ask them to engage with your dog in a way that prioritizes the dog’s comfort, reinforces a calm and cooperative mentality and doesn’t undermine your training. However, know your audience! If your parents won’t listen and even after a direct conversation are constantly undermining your dog-boundaries then consider staying somewhere else or leaving your dog at home.
If there are too many unknowns, leave your tired dog in a crate. If you bring them out of the crate, enlist the help of others before you do so. “I’m going to see if I can get Yam out to join us for a bit. Would y’all mind just not trying to greet her until she is calm? It might take her a minute so I’ll let you know a good time to say hi. Thank you for helping me!”
If you and your dog are a guest in someone’s home it’s great to have a quick chat about their preferences and boundaries before you arrive. Do they prefer to have no dogs on the furniture? That is something you should start practicing asap. Are they going to be sensitive to dog hair? Bring your grooming gloves and use them every day starting the week before you leave. Where do they want poo bags to go? Are they okay with your dog sleeping in the bed? Do they have room for a crate? Do a quick check in when you make the plans so you can be sure that you are on the same page and bringing your dog will be festive for everyone
🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?
Especially if the dog care is free, we can only ask so much. As long as your dog is safe and in good company we can be glad they are having a good time and pick up training when we get home. If you are paying a professional then you can raise your expectations slightly, but there are plenty of people in the dog care industry who you will know more about dogs than after just having read this article.
Think about what is most important for your dog’s safety. Do they dart out of open doors? (You should really work on that after this trip!) Can they open gates or have they dug under a fence? Are they safe off leash? Is it maybe safer to just send a long line and ask the sitter to keep them on leash for this week? Have they ever been possessive over a toy or bone or their food bowl? Let your sitter know to keep all of those picked up if there is more than one dog around.
A sitter doesn’t need to follow all of your good training protocol and giving them a full download of the eCourse at drop off will likely overwhelm them. It will be amazing how fast you can get it back when you come home! Pick what is most important for their safety and maybe one or two good training boundaries. If you use a tool like the eCollar or Slip Lead then consider having a few pre-board training walks together to get them used to it or throwing on a harness they can’t slip out of to protect your dog’s neck from unskilled hands who haven’t developed the kind of sensitivity to pressure that yours have and that the slip lead requires.
Remember that the holidays are not an ideal time to sign your dog up for Board and Train because it’s highly likely your trainer will have other clients’ dogs boarding when they travel. If you are signing up for training during this time, be sure that your trainer knows your top 3 complaints or goals so they can focus on troubleshooting that for you and getting in the reps.
ENJOY YOUR HOLIDAY, DOG EXPERT!
I hope this article has not only given you some game changing tools for this holiday season, but a deeper understanding of how dogs think and how we can be good owners and advocates for them.
Tire them out.
Let them miss the party.
Keep them on leash.
Be careful around food, it changes the game.
Tell people what you need and know when to call it.
Remember, your dog doesn’t know what a holiday is and they won’t be sad to miss the party if attending could lead to someone, anyone, having a not so good time because of it. I always vote for a good, long hike in the morning then a nice nappy nap. Plus if uncle Joe does get into politics, your dog waiting for you at home is the perfect excuse to bail!
How To De-spook Halloween 🎃
This holiday has huge potential for accidental, well... dog abuse. I have been guilty of a few of these myself, so please learn from my mistakes.
1) Halloween can be terrifying
Puppies need to be socialized to what they are going to experience in our human world through slow and systematic exposure. No matter your dog's age, one day a year of seeing people dressed up and moving strangely isn't going to cut it. They may be scared and run away, bark or cower when the decorations and costumes come out in your home or neighborhood. Stressing dogs out isn't cute or funny so please don't laugh or get out your camera if they are in distress. I shouldn't have to say this, but thousands of videos on the internet indicate it's worth stating. It's your job as a good dog owner to help them cope with our strange and incomprehensible human world, which means stepping in immediately if they are unsure or distressed.
Here's what to do if your dog is uneasy...
If your dog is worried about your neighborhood decorations or a costumed person, don't let them stand tensely and stare or run past it to get away.
Take a deep breath and pull your shoulders back
Make a quick plan and take charge by giving them a task to focus on
Shorten your leash (or put it on if it wasn't already)
Put them to work by doing some "weird walking"
Engage their thinking brain and run some training commands within sight of the spooky situation, but not too close (this won't be possible if they are too scared)
Walk back and forth in a heel until they get used to what they are seeing out the corner of their eye
Try standing still and see if they are more comfortable or still wigged out
If you have to bail, walk big circles and spiral away instead of letting your dog drag you down the block like their life depends on it If you bounce along behind them they may accidentally assume that you agree with their assessment or that they are saving you from danger, which is the opposite of helping them manage their fear
Bottom line: If your dog is overwhelmed, you gotta go home. Give them a breather and come back later with the sole intention of desensitizing or avoid that particular trigger if you can't make progress.
2) Your dog is not a doll
If you want to put your dog in a costume, make sure you are more tuned in to their body language than you are committed to getting your cute photo. Dogs show subtle signs of distress when they are uncomfortable that we can easily miss or misinterpret. This may include licking, looking down and away, panting, freezing, raising a paw, showing the whites of their eyes, laying their ears back or to the side, or trying to climb on us. More obvious distress signals would be running away and rolling to get out of their costume, but most dogs will freeze. If you MUST dress up your dog, make sure you take your time and desensitize them to whatever you are about to put on then take it right off once you are done. Please don't make your dog wear anything for longer than "necessary," even if they seem not to mind.
Be sure that your dog's costume is comfortable for them:
Not too hot
Doesn't restrict their movement or hang low so they have to walk carefully not to trip
Doesn't cover or restrict their eyes, nose or mouth
Allows for the leash to be properly in place (don't clip a leash to a costume, even if it has a loop)
Has the opening placed for them to easily eliminate
No loose or flopping parts another dog can grab and hold on to (or, even better, no loose dogs in costumes interacting with each other)
Heading to the Pup Parade?
First you have make sure your dog is comfortable walking in their costume around house and the neighborhood. If they aren't, then it's a no-go. If you get to the event and they are anxious or afraid, try the tips from the section above on the periphery of the event. If they can't settle then cuteness is cancelled and you gotta disrobe and go home.
3) No good scare
Be VERY mindful if you want to take your dog trick or treating and prepare ahead of time to be able to take your dog home if they aren't diggin' it. This means having two adults present with the kiddos so one can bail with the pup if needed. If you are flying solo, make sure that you are very unattached to your plans if you choose to bring your dog. Keeping a dog out with you when they are scared will degrade their trust in you, their feeling of safety in the world, and can lay the groundwork for reactivity. You can tell by my tone that this is no joke!
Dog lover/trainer recommendation: give your dog a super long walk during the day then leave them safely crated in a quiet room at home while you go out. If you are hosting costumed humans, consider sending your dog out for a sleep-over or make sure you keep them with you on leash for the first hour to help them acclimate instead of letting them run free.
4) All tricks, no treats
We humans celebrate special occasions with special food, but our dogs' stomachs are not the same as ours. We want to share our joy and festivities AND food with them, which can lead to upset tummies, loose poos and even a trip to the emergency vet. We all know chocolate is dangerous for dogs, but so are sugar, raisins, coconut, nuts, or anything "sugar-free."
Well, that's just about everything! Your dog will be grateful if you avoid feeding them anything different this holiday season (yup, right through New Years!). If you really want to give them a treat, make it a long walk or hike or a trick training session.
Over Halloween week and the week after be mindful of stray candy wrappers and decorations on your walks. If you see something blowing around, get your dog's attention, shorten the leash, ask them to sit or wait as you take a step or two over and bend down to pick up any trash you see before your dog (or any dog) can get to them for some good neighbor karma.
Bonus: This is a good training moment and mirrors the "wait" protocol you should be implementing at every door before you open it.
Some of Our Favorite Trails
The love of hiking with dogs was what started our business back in 2013. There is no greater joy than taking your dog into nature to enjoy the sights, smells, sounds and new terrain as you exercise your dog’s mind, body and soul. We believe that any dog can become a great off leash hiking companion with time and the right training. Unless you have a solid recall even with intense distractions, we recommend staying on leash or letting your dog drag a long line on the trails.
Off Leash Trails
This was a favorite of our hiking pack. This park has a great 2.5 mile loop with some water to play in when the creek is full. We advise avoiding it on busy times, like weekends, as it can be too crowded. This park gets very muddy after a rain, so give it a few days to dry out if the weather has been bad.
Walnut Creek has many areas and miles of trails to explore, but the entire park isn’t off leash and there are a lot of mountain bikers. During busy times, we like to drop in in a neighborhood entrance instead of the main park entrance. Keep your headphones out and work on that recall so you can step aside for bikes.
This South Austin park is less trafficked and has some nice trails to explore with your dog off the main two mile loop.
Shoal Creek has a small off leash section for dogs, but the entire trail is a great walk. There are some on leash areas and some streets to cross, but this is a nice, central trail to walk that runs from 38th street all the way to the lake.
On Leash Trails
We love Bull Creek trail because there are so many different areas to explore on this trail! The water can be a bit stagnant so be sure you can call your dog off standing water. We also advise avoiding this trail for several days after a heavy rain as there is a lot of run off from 360 that can upset your dog’s tummy. Start in the lot off 2222 or up by Old Spicewood and explore the trails that weave up the hills.
This trail charges a fee on the weekends, but is free on weekdays. It’s a bit further than Turkey Creek and one of the prettiest trails in Austin. If you have two cars you may want to relay them and through-hike the 5.5 miles, or you can do a there and back from the main parking area on Big View Drive. There are a lot of steps on this trail, making it a great place for hikers to come train for more intense trails outside of Texas. We like the shaded trails and water holes.
In South Austin the Greenbelt has several entrances and 13.8 miles to explore. This park is busy on weekends and after work, especially at the most central entrances. There are some nice water holes, but we advise enjoying those on off peak hours to avoid overwhelming your dog. You can also find many quieter neighborhood entrances to this park.
Prepare to get lost in this quiet park with its many twists and turns. This is a great place to explore with your dog. I like to walk until I’m lost, then pull out my phone and plot my turns as I find my way back to the car. You can park in Longview Neighborhood Park and check out the unofficial play area there or park in the neighborhood streets off Westgate for a direct trail entrance.
This beautiful park has a great dam as well as several nice trails. Wear water shoes to cross the creek and walk the longer trail up the hill or walk down Spicewood Springs road along the creek, being mindful that some spots on this trail are close to the road.
Open Areas
We don’t advise that anyone go to a fenced dog park as these are often breeding grounds for too intense play and bad behaviors, but we enjoy some of the open areas where dogs can mix in some play with the walk.
Zilker can get very busy on nice days, but we like that there is always room to walk away from crowded areas or other dogs if your dog is overwhelmed. This park has a beautiful view of the skyline and plenty of room to spread out.
If your dog is a swimmer, be sure you are aware of the current algae status and have solid recall if you see them heading for the lake. Auditorium Shores is an area where dogs go to play off leash, but is unfenced and close to Riverside Drive, so you need to be sure to keep your dog in the grassy area. We like that this area is near the Ladybird Lake Hike and Bike trail and Palmer Events Center so you can mix play with some walking- as it should be!
Red Bud has very limited parking and short trails, but is a great spot to go during off peak hours when you are more likely to get a spot. There are some play areas as well as some tucked away spots to enjoy some quiet time by the water. This was a favorite for me on rainy days as the gravel paths didn’t get muddy and it wasn’t very busy.
Pro tips for ID tags
You know we like the Mendota Slip Lead, which doesn't connect to a collar, but for safety we recommend that dogs always wear a collar with ID tags.
While some collars have the ID information written on or sewed into the fabric, I find that I'm more likely to pull over and try to grab a dog whose tag I can see dangling so I recommend getting one of those. There is no need for your dog to have a rabies tag on so then the tag won't make any noise.
My tag reads:
“H” or Kaough
Call or text
Phone 1
Phone 2
Needs daily meds
I don't have my dog's name on her ID tag because if someone picks her up and tries to pass her off as their own, I want the vet to tell that she is confused and I want the name they give the vet to not match the name in her microchip. You can put an initial or you can put your last name instead of your dog's name.
I put two phone numbers, mine and a friend who is likely to answer their phone if a strange number calls. Ideally you have the number of the person your dog is staying with or someone local if you are out of town and not that of the person you are traveling with. Tags are cheap! Get a few.
I write "Call or text" just in case me or my friend doesn't answer. It goes without saying these days the number is most likely a cell, but it's worth adding that line to remind someone in that high intensity moment of finding a dog that text is a good option for reaching the owner.
I also write "needs daily meds" on the tag. If it's two sided, put this on the front where a name would go. Again, since my dog is so cute and I worry about someone finding and keeping her, this phrase is there to help encourage anyone who finds her to get her home.
I hope these tips help you make your tag as effective as possible at it's true job - getting your dog back to you if they get lost!
Is your dog a good houseguest?
Imagine if your friend asked if they could bring a friend over to your house. This friend of your friend barges in and immediately starts inspecting every thing you own. They open your cabinets, rummage through your fridge, jump on your bed, then go dig a hole in your yard. After that they track mud in and lay down on your couch, kicking their dirty feet up on your favorite pillow. By this point you have served food and it looks good to your new houseguest, so they reach over and grab a bite right off your plate. Meanwhile your friend is oblivious. They have a close relationship with this person and aren’t really paying attention. In fact, they assume you must like them as much as they do!
I don’t usually let people bring their dogs to my house, but this describes a porch visit this week when a friend of a friend brought her dog over. This behavior is slightly more acceptable from a dog than a human, but still rude and ultimately unnecessary.
If you want your dog to get an invite back to your friend’s houses, be sure you have covered the following skillsets at home before you venture into new environments.
Pay attention to your dog
Your dog is your responsibility. As part of our training we teach owners to be subtly tuned into their dog at all times. Just like checking your blind spot before changing lanes is an ingrained habit, checking on your dog when they are off leash in a new environment - even a fenced one - should become a habit to the tune of a glace every few seconds, especially for the first hour you are there. I recommend bringing your dog over on leash and keeping them on leash until they have time to acclimate to the environment and calm down. Then watch as they start to explore, checking in with them and maintaining the good boundaries you have at home. A light "eh-eh" command in time is worth 100 loud ’"No’"s too late.
Stay off the furniture
We teach the ‘off’ command as part of our basic training and ask that dogs stay off the furniture for a period of time. Not only does staying off the furniture change the way our dogs view our relationship dynamic and help them listen better, but we are laying the foundation for an important skill: the ability to stay off furniture when asked. This is because at some point in your dogs’ life they will encounter a couch they need to stay off of. If you can’t keep your dog off the furniture at home, you won’t be able to in a new environment. We recommend setting boundaries around your couch and bed, only letting your dog up when invited and only if they get down promptly and willingly with one "off.”
Avoid human food
We don’t recommend feeding table scraps to dogs because it creates an unhealthy association that can lead to problematic behaviors including begging and stealing food off the table. You don’t want everyone present to have to guard their plate or be mindful of where they leave food because your dog can’t help themselves from stealing it. At home keep your dog out of your space while you eat and don’t build an association between you eating and them getting a bite.
Respect personal space
We teach that your personal space bubble is about the length of your wingspan. Put your arm straight out from the shoulder and imagine a line going down to the floor around you. That is your bubble! We ask that dogs stay out of this bubble unless they are invited in. The reason we ask owners to be mindful of enforcing this boundary with their dogs at home is so dogs default to it when meeting new people and dogs. You don’t want your dog to be jumping on people, climbing into their laps, squeezing next to them on furniture or putting their dirty paws up on people’s legs. Help your dog to understand barging into people’s space is off limits with you and everyone.
Respect property
Let’s start with no digging and add no destroying things, dog toys or otherwise.
As a dog trainer, I am very picky with which dogs come over to my house. On walks I prefer to take the leash from my friends, finding it easier to work with a dog than watch my friend halfheartedly fumble through cues and commands. At home I like to relax.
The reason I prefer to not have dogs at my house is that most owners don’t have options with their dog and that is one of the most important things we teach our clients.
I want the option of keeping my dog off the furniture in case I go to someone’s house who prefers dogs stay off the couch. I want the option of keeping my dog near me instead of running around. I definitely need to stay tuned in enough to my dog so they don’t dig or steal food. I want a dog who doesn’t embarrass me or stress out my host, or, worst of all, destroy anything.
In order to be a good houseguest, make sure your dog can do the following:
-Enter new places calmly
-Potty before entering
-Politely greet humans
-Be respectful to other pets in the house
-Sit on leash inside with distractions
-Stay off the furniture
-Respond with alacrity to ’no’ or ‘off’ commands
-Be around food without counter surfing, begging, or stealing off plates or out of hands (seriously!)
-Not dig or bark in the yard
Thinking of getting an E collar? How to start out the right way
This isn’t the first training tool we recommend using. I don’t use the eCollar with most of my clients and only suggest it when my other training interventions don’t seem to be as effective as they should be. This is one of the most popular articles on my site and that makes me sad for dogs because I feel like we, as trainers, have failed to get the message out about what works.
Every training program should focus on laying a foundation of respect, trust and having the attitude of a good teammate. Most of us - me included when I got my dog - naturally engage in behaviors that contribute to how well our dog listens to us. This is anything from giving too much affection, not having healthy boundaries and not knowing how to tell a dog we really don’t like something they are doing and in order for us to have a nice life together, they have to stop.
That foundation is built in small moments that generally have nothing to do with the owner’s main complaint about their dog. The guidelines are counterintuitive because we need to see the world from a dog’s perspective instead of our own, we need to understand what the relationship needs to be before we try to make it what we wanted it to be. It has to do with how we give our dog affection and attention. It has to do with knowing how to give commands in a way your dog will listen. It’s about teaching a dog impulse inhibition in the small moments so they can access it when we really need them to. It’s about being the leader your dog needs you to be. It’s about experiencing a closeness and bond that is beyond cooing and cuddles, one that most owners never get access to.
If you are interested in learning about how to change your life with your dog and get ecollar results without using this serious piece of equipment, please check out my eCourse that shares how to apply my entire training philosophy to help you understand dogs.
If you have been working with a trainer and established the type of relationships, rules and boundaries you need, here is the best way to get started and our recommendation on how your a Mini Educator ecollar should be used.
While E-collars have gotten a bad reputation, I have found them to facilitate subtle and intuitive communication with my dogs when used properly. This isn’t the first tool I recommend to training clients, but we have found some dogs prefer this method of communication over other cues. There are levels on the collar that are so gentle a human can’t even feel them. We have found the collar to be particularly effective at teaching and reinforcing off leash recall skills as it allows me to ‘touch’ my dog from afar. If I were a bigger, stronger, faster dog, I would be able to physically catch my dog when he got too excited or roamed too far and use dog body language, such as a nip on the neck, to show him that he is not allowed to do what he is doing. The collar is a great way to translate that communication given the limitations inherent in the difference in our species.
First, it is important that we see the collar, like the leash, as a communication tool and not as a punishment. As with guiding children as they grow, education involves encouraging the behaviors we want more of as well as dissuading the behaviors we want to discourage. Our goal in using the collar is to establish consistent cause and effect. These cues will be associated with our voice and body movements to facilitate us reaching the point where the collar isn’t needed.
As you begin, the best practice is to have the collar on consistently every day or every time you are in the pertinent situation for four to six months as a conservative estimate. For this, I use the 90% rule. If the collar is on 90% of the time, and 90% of the time I don’t need to use it, then I can begin to reduce the time it is used. If I find it isn’t on and I need it more than twice, I will start being more consistent again.
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Regression is a normal part of the learning process. Many dogs will achieve a level of calmness and comprehension to where they rarely require the collar. Some days, a dog may be more excited than usual or there are days their ears won’t work as well. You might need to have the ecollar changed and ready all the time because it’s best to use the collar preemptively on days like this. Being tuned in to your dog on this level is why we use the collar in conjunction with our training program, which focuses on building the relationship as well as applying training techniques.
Sometimes simply having the collar on is enough of an incentive for my dog to do the mental work of staying within the behavioral guidelines we have set. Generally, after I correct a dog three times for doing something I know that they understands they’re is not meant to do, I can say that the verbal, body language or energetic correction isn’t working and I need to put the collar on again. This is also a cue for me to change the situation, such as putting my dog on leash if they aren’t responding to recall cues. This is why we say our training is ‘dog led.’ My dog can keep the collar off if they maintain a calm and cooperative mindset and listens to light corrections. The choice is theirs!
Getting Started with your Mini Educator
We have a lot of respect for the ecollar and do not recommend using it without the help of a trainer. Since both you and your dog will be learning a new language together, it’s best to have guidance from someone who is fluent. This is also not the first tool we go to. It isn’t fair to the dog to use the ecollar as a quick fix because it worked well for a friend.
Charging
It’s important that the collar is charged and ready to go by our training session. First, open the water proof plug closures and charge the collar and remote. It will glow red while it is charging and green when it is done. Because of the lithium battery, it’s important that you avoid over charging it once it is green or allowing the battery to die once it turns read. When the battery on the collar or remote is low, the light will flash amber. Try to stay in a habit of turning the collar and remote off after each use as well as charging it before it gets low. After you remove the charger, it’s best to build a habit of putting the stoppers back in till they are flush so your collar remains waterproof.
Off and on
The Mini Educator can be a little tricky to turn off and on. The remote has a large, circular button on the back. To turn on, push and hold till the display turns on. To turn off, push and hold till the display reads ‘OF’ then release. This button is also connected to the night light on the collar so you can check if the light was activated and press again to turn off.
To turn on the collar, align the red dot on the side of the collar with the one on the side of the remote. Swipe the two dots against each other till the collar flashes green for on. If you swipe it twice it will flash red for off. Sometimes the collar can switch off and on in one swipe, so I test the collar by vibrating it.
Collar
The strap for the collar in the box is very long and will need to be trimmed down. In order to be effective, the stimulation points need to touch the skin on your dog’s neck. The collar should fit like a belt. Too tight and it will not be comfortable, too loose and it won’t do its job. Find the right hole for your dog and cut the collar about 3-4” longer for an adult dog or 6” for a puppy that is still growing. Having extra room will make the collar easier to put on and give you the option of using it on another dog who may be bigger. We like to cut the tip into a point instead of flush across so it’s easier to thread through the buckle.
Using the night light
The night light on the collar is perfect for walking, camping, or keeping track of your dog in the yard at night. To turn the night light on, press the on/off button on the back of the remote. One push and the light will pulse, two pushes and the light will be steady, three and it will turn off. If you turn off the collar, the light turns off as well.
Wearing the remote
The collar comes with a clip on lanyard that we recommend you immediately clip on to the remote. When I work with dogs on the hiking trails or in training sessions, I always wear pants with a belt loop. I clip the remote around a belt loop and keep my hands free to signal my dog with hand motions or to hold a leash. As you learn to use the collar, clip it on and practice moving your hand to it so you can trigger the collar correctly in a split second, like in an old western shoot out. Without pressing the buttons, move your hand down and feel where your fingers hit them, saying which is which as you touch them. It’s also good to practice twisting the level control so you know how to get the collar close to the number you want, limiting the number of times you have to look down in that pivotal training moment.
Your fingers should know:
Vibrate (T button alone on the right)
Stimulate (black and red buttons on the left)
Twist up (we usually do a quarter twist for 10-20 points when we need to up the stimulation)
Twist down (again, a quarter twist to lower 10-20 points)
Testing the levels
What is great about the Mini Educator collar is that it has levels that are so gentle you or your dog can’t even feel them. The collar goes from 0-100 and we generally start at level 3-8 and bump in increments of 5-10. Try this and the vibrate setting on your forearm to see how it feels. Humans can usually feel the sensation between levels 12-20. You’ll notice it feels like an uncomfortable stimulation and not a painful shock. We like the Mini Educator because the cheaper collars are often more painful. When it comes to dog care, the ecollar is not somewhere to try and save money.
The collar should always be used respectfully and responsibly, never using more pressure than is necessary. The ecollar sensation mimics the nip that one dog would give another when they are misbehaving. Be careful using your ecollar when other dogs are close to your dog, especially before your dog is very familiar with the feeling on their body and it being related to a communication from you. If your dog feels the collar when they are near another dog, particularly if there are group dynamics taking place or if your dog is very excited, it’s likely that they could mistake the collar for a bite and start defending themselves against the closest dog.
We always attempt to stay in the lightest levels that are effective for that dog in that moment on that day, but even if you accidentally use the collar over threshhold, you will never physically injure a dog with collar stimulation. This is why when our leash corrections aren’t effective as a communication tool or behavior deterrent, we suggest trying the collar as a more powerful and subtle approach.
Teaching the collar
Put the collar on and let your dog wear it around the house so he can get used to the way it feels before it is used. When you begin to teach your dog using the collar, make sure the collar and remote are on and the stimulation level is set at 3-5. The level number only applies to the electronic pulses, not to the vibrate, which is consistent. We like to start by using the collar for the ‘come’ command when your dog is on a longline. This will help your dog associate the use of the stimulation with their choice to ignore you.
We have found the collar to be particularly effective at teaching recall and deterring behaviors such as hunting on hikes, counter-surfing, barking, and jumping as well as reinforcing general obedience.
Throughout our training, we will show you how to use the collar in a way that is the most gentle and effective, laying the groundwork from the beginning to achieve the same level of focus and responsiveness whether it is on your dog or not.
Summer in Austin (used to be) the perfect time to go for a swim!
UPDATE: Since this article was written Austin’s lakes, creeks and waterways have developed a toxic algae that can be deadly to dogs. This algae is most common in warmer months, but swimming in or drinking from Ladybird Lake should be avoided at all times.
Before allowing your dog to be in any water in Austin check the City of Austin’s algae report. Even if algae isn’t present on the test samples doesn’t mean it isn’t in the water.
Check out these lists from DO512 and Tomlinsons for ideas on where to take your dog swimming, buy a kiddie pool for the backyard, walk before sunrise and after sunset where the air and pavement is coolest and make sure you explore Austin’s many greenbelts and trails to find the shadiest spot near you.
Here are some great spots we love:
Commons Ford is my favorite place to swim. The ramp into the water, while slippery, makes it easy to lead hesitant pups in and I love that you can stand while your dog paddles around you, allowing you to help support their torso if needed. They also know where the ramp to exit is if they get tired or nervous.
Red Bud is a great place to wade in the water at and have your pup swim out to you. There is a good woodsy spot downhill to the left from the big flat play area if you are facing the tip of the isle.
The Lake has a few parks with easier parking and less people, although some are rocky or have a small fee, they can be worth exploring when you are feeling adventurous.
Secret Beach, which you can now find on Google Maps, is a great place to wade if you time it right with the dam opening. Sometimes the current can be so strong it will sweep a dog away, other times it's so low you can only sit in it. Be prepared to run into quite a few others with off leash dogs. Either way, it is still a wonderful spot.
While the creeks are running, we like the damn at Bull Creek just north of the Lakewood or Laurelwood Dr entrances.
Lost Creek is my my favorite spot on the Greenbelt, while not legally off-leash, it can also be a fun place to swim,
Extra tips:
Do your best to beware of glass or food that has been thrown on the trail, especially any bones.
For good karma, bring a plastic bag to pick up trash or forgotten poo bags.
On busy times like the weekend, be careful! Unfortunately there are a ton of bad dogs out in the wild whose owners don't know better.
Keep your dog in your sight so he doesn't bother anyone, steal food or get into a bad spot with other pups.
Be ready to jump up and step in, shooing other dogs away who are showing tense body language, chasing too intensely or barking.
If needed, take a break by going back on leash for a bit. If it's a bad scene or too crowded, move on down the creek to a quieter spot.
A few of our favorite things
The Naked Dog, as the name implies, likes to keep life with dogs down to the bare minimum. We like to use our body and relationship as our main training tools. We do, however, have a few products we really love.
Our favorite tool
The Mendota Slip Lead in 3/8”x 4’
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We love the Mendota slip lead so much, we started giving it to every client who signs up for our training series.
This leash slips over your dog’s head and can be positioned just where a leash needs to be- at the tippy top of the neck behind your dog’s ears and jaw. For us, the leash isn’t a way of controlling your dog. It’s a communication tool. When the leash is positioned on the sensitive part of the neck, it reminds your dog when they walk they are ‘on the job’ and allows you to ‘talk’ to them with a subtle movement.
Our goal is to have no pressure on the leash from you or from your dog, so you walk together in a way that reinforces the calm, mental engagement we want from our dogs.
This leash is easy to get off and on as you are reinforcing good behavior or reacting to changes in the environment.
It’s great for use in the house if you have a dog who gets nervous around company or is an overzealous greeter. It’s the perfect length to wear over your neck or slung across your shoulder while you hike. I never leave home without one!
Many of our clients have called this leash a game changer when it comes to leash reactivity or teaching a dog the skill of loose leash walking - something every dog should learn to make walks more enjoyable for everyone!
Throw away your harness and grab yourself a slip lead today so you can see for yourself what all the fuss is about!
Made for pets
The best electronic collar on the market
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Electronic collars get a bad rap. To be honest, before I had a client insist on buying one, I didn’t want to use them. The truth is that electronic collars allow me to speak to my dog in a language they intuitively understand. If I was a bigger, stronger, faster dog, I would ‘nip’ my dog on the neck when they were getting too excited or ignoring me. Since I’m not fast or agile enough to catch my dog in a full play gallop, the Mini Educator allows us to touch our dogs without catching them.
We don’t use collars on every dog and it isn’t the first place we go when beginning training, but it gives us a sense of security when teaching a dog to be safe off-leash. We spend a few days acclimating each dog to the collar and teaching them to associate the stimulation with our voice.
When the dog learns that I am ‘home base’ and the right answer is to come back to me if they get ‘tagged,’ they are ready to start learning to be safe off leash. They have learned to respect the boundaries I set, which are in place for safety as well as convenience.
We love this brand because it is designed for pets, not hunting dogs, and the range allows for it to work for every dog, from the most sensitive to the thickest skinned.
For the working dog
Who wants to carry his own weight
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The Outward Hound pack occasionally makes an appearance in our hiking group for dogs who need a little extra. This pack is great for giving a strong, active dog additional exercise so they get more bang for the buck on each mile of the hike. We fill it with water bottles on hot days or soup cans when it’s all about weight. You better believe we are tough on these packs - they go swimming, run through the bushes, get rolled on in nature and survive plenty of full body shakes. The straps can be adjusted to a variety of dogs, which we love in case we switch it out mid-hike. If you want to try a pack for your high energy pup, we recommend starting very light and building up weight slowly. Working dogs love the responsibility and we love the added oomph it offers on the way to tiring out some of our super active hikers.
Stinky Collar?
Dublin Dog to the rescue!
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If your dog loves hiking and the swimming, rolling and playing that go along with it, you know the pain of a stinky collar. We are sticklers for safety, so we ask all our pups to wear collars with id tags. Washing collars seems to be one of those chores that is almost impossible to get to, but if you have to grab your dog’s collar, you will quickly regret putting it off. We love the Dublin Dog because they come in fun colors, they don’t get wet and hold moisture against your dog’s neck after a swim, and, mostly, because they never stink! A necessary accessory for any adventurous dog.
For those who need help coming back
A longline
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Here at The Naked Dog, we refer to off leash work as the graduate school of dog training. Off leash recall is built over time on a foundation of focus, boundaries, a cooperative attitude, and a calm, willing mindset that can be influenced in any situation, even with the most attractive distractions. We use a 30' long line as we build a dog’s off leash skills. The long line gives a dog the feeling of being free, while giving us the control we need to reel them in when we say come or keep them safe in unfenced environments. The long line helps us set a dog up for success on the trails or at the park and we love this training tool.
So you want to board your dog?
We are down to the wire on the holidays and I have been getting a lot of calls from desperate dog owners who waited to make a booking. We only do boarding for dogs in our hiking group, and even those clients started booking for holiday travel in August. It’s competitive to get the best care for your dog and smart owners (who have been burned in the past) learned the lesson to book ahead and adjust dates or cancel (with lots of notice please!) instead of scrambling days before a trip.
When I tell people I’m booked, they usually ask me for a recommendation and the truth is, I have no great ones because I haven’t been a client of any business. When I travel I have been lucky enough to always have a friend watch my sweet pup Harley or to be a client of my own business. That is wonderful because I have directly felt the value of the service we offer getting the photos of her hiking and I know I don’t need to worry about my dog because she is getting great care.
For me, step one is to train your dog!
A trained dog who is calm, obedient, and listens well to other people is going to be a much easier dog to ask someone to watch than a wild hound who jumps on people and furniture, pulls on the leash, doesn’t listen to commands, or is all around unruly.
Start building mutually beneficial relationships with your family, friends, neighbors. You can even make dog friends at neighborhood parks with the owners of dogs your dog plays well with. If you can trade off watching each other’s dogs that is a huge help! Again, people are usually more than happy to welcome an easy, well behaved dog into their home for a few days, so get your dog under control and save some money long term. All this needs to happen months and months before a big trip, not at the last minute.
If you are weeks or days away from a trip and need help, here are the pluses and minuses of all the services available.
You almost always get what you pay for. Be wary of inexpensive services because they may make their income on quantity instead of quality.
*Disclaimer- I haven’t used most of these services for my own dog and what is written is only my opinion from what I know and experiences of others. All circumstances vary business to business and sometimes depending what staff is on duty. The quality of the care and play time will be affected by who is on duty each day - not every staff member is equally skilled, experienced or caring.
I like services similar to what I offer where one person cares for your dog the entire stay, but that isn’t usually possible or available. Always trust your gut and evaluate each business for yourself.
Board before you need to board
When you are first trying to find somewhere to board, it’s good to do a trial stay and see how your dog comes back. Not every environment is right for every dog and there is only one way to find out how your dog will react.
I love switching up my dog’s routine and getting them comfortable spending time away from me.
Are they stressed? Scratched? Overly tired in a way that indicates they didn’t rest well? Or are they comfortable and happy? For me, the mark of a good relationship with my dog and quality care is that your dog isn’t too excited to see you. That means they were comfortable where they were and would be happy to stay or to leave with you. Now let’s go over the options.
Rover, the Uber of dog care
What I like about Rover is that your dog gets to stay in someone’s home, not a kennel, which is an environment most of our pets are not used to. With Rover, there are a ton of variables. Since anyone can sign up, does the person know anything about dogs? Do they have their own dog? How many dogs will they watch at once? Where are the dogs kept? I like a situation where only one or two temperament tested dogs are there at a time, the dogs will be crated when no one is home, and where they are not left for longer than 6 hours.
Know that during the holidays it can be tempting to overbook since so many people need help, so it’s likely that someone may take on more dogs than usual and possibly more dogs than their home and ability can handle.
Pet sitter
This can be a good option because your dog gets to stay in your home. I may prefer a college student who can stay there instead of someone who stops in, one to three times a day. Personally, my dog wouldn’t be happy spending that much time alone. If your dog is more independent, pet sitting is an option for a short trip or long day at work, just be sure your dog is getting sufficient exercise and can cope with having the house to themselves. (This is not a good fit for dogs that are crated while you are out of the house.)
Trusted Housesitter
Check out Trustedhousesitters.com as a way to find in-home and free pet care! Someone will come and stay in your home, taking care of your pets and house in exchange for a free place to stay. Use your discretion, read reviews, and have a conversation with someone before confirming the sit to make sure they can keep up with your routine, rules and boundaries and can give your dog sufficient exercise. This is the best way to keep your dog in the best possible place for them while you are way - your home!
Your vet
Please don’t leave your dog at the vet. If you went away for the weekend, would you stay in a hospital? NOPE. They smell weird and it’s not a pleasant environment. Many times dogs are not allowed to socialize at a vet office, for obvious reasons.
Some vets have great setups for boarding. Some offer private rooms and play areas for dogs on a whole different floor or in a different building than where the doctoring takes place. If your dog will be kept in a cage, in a kennel, or outdoors, this change in environment will be moderately unpleasant at best and traumatic at worst. This should be a last resort - depending on the set up! Ask to see where the dogs are kept before you book.
Upside is that if your dog has health issues, or is on special medications or if your dog injures himself, they can take care of it immediately.
A kennel
Kennels are large facilities that care for many dogs at once. Their indoor setups vary, but typically the dogs are kept in a cement floor and wired individual kennel or cage in one loud room and let out to play or walk once, twice, or several times a day.
My dog has always been at home, so I don’t think she would be comfortable being kept in a kennel most of the day, especially in a large sterile room filled with barking dogs. That sounds like a nightmare. Especially when your hearing is as good as our dog’s is!
Pet resort
I don’t know much about these and imagine they vary from place to place, but from what I understand, dogs get their own room to stay in and have supervised play times and potty breaks.
I like this idea for a dog’s safety and the fact that it may be more quiet in a room with walls versus an open room of crates.
It is HARD to find any photos of facilities on the websites of local businesses. This is the only one I found for a pet resort. These rooms also often tend to have cameras so you can watch your dog. I still think my pup would be stressed and lonely here, but it seems like the best of the options so far.
Dog ranch
These could be a great fit for a larger more energetic dog. The dogs stay in kennels, sometimes in a covered outdoor area, and get to romp around a large property during the day. I wouldn’t be inclined to send a small dog here unless they have a separate area for small dogs.
Board and Train
I love board and train if you have researched the trainer and facility, gotten references of past clients and made the decision you want to dedicate 2-4 weeks and several thousand dollars to having your dog professionally trained. Ultimately how well your dog behaves in the long run will depend on how much you can keep up with the trainer’s recommendations.
I used to get a lot of calls asking if I could ‘board and train’ for a long weekend. Someone couldn’t teach me French in 3 days, but could maybe teach me a few words and give me some basics. Same is true for our dogs and a true board and train needs to last several weeks. Board and train is expensive and not something you should rush into at the last minute because you need care and want to kill two birds with one stone. Those calls would make me really sad because it shows how our industry does a bad job of explaining how dogs learn and what different services mean.
Also- strong strong recommendation to not do board and train over a holiday. During holidays I was up to my ears in dogs and taking care of the basic needs took all my time and energy. Any dog hoping to get some extra training would be getting less than my best self and less time than I could usually dedicate. I simply wouldn’t take on this request during holiday times because I knew I couldn’t do the best job possible, but not everyone would say “no” to extra money. Please don’t board and train over holiday times. Unless the facility’s trainers are separate from their caregivers, it’s not the best use of your dollars.
Happy traveling and best of luck!
The short goodbye... Proper etiquette for leaving your dog
When people drop their dogs off at my house for boarding, I notice that the owner's behavior can unintentionally cause stress instead of confidence in their dogs. We love our dogs so much, but sometimes when we express that love in a human way it can actually stress out our poor pups. While goodbyes are good etiquette when it comes to human manners, dogs don't naturally share that cultural norm.
As a new client, who has never left their dog before, you may arrive nervous,or even as a seasoned client you know you will miss your pup, so you may draw out the goodbye, pulling your dog's attention back to you when really the dog is interested (as they should be) in being in a new place and smelling new smells.
Your nervous, unsure, emotional energy gets transmitted to your dog. Instead of being excited to be somewhere new, they take a cue from you that the situation is distressing and therefore they feel more distress than necessary. Your dog may even start to worry about you!
In general, I find quick, unemotional hand offs are best. If you have calm, confident energy, you passively transmit the message to your dog that everything is fine and therefore they feel good about what's happening.
Parting with your dog is always tough. Once I see my dog is happy and content without me,usually after receiving the first photo of my dog, I can relax.. Do your dog (and your boarder!) a favor and try to have a smooth hand off when you drop your dog for boarding.
