Dog Holiday Prep Guide

Preparing our dogs for what they will experience between mid November and after New Years is often not what people think of when it comes to the holidays. WE know that this is the season for large gatherings, family visits, vacations and special meals, but our dogs have no clue that anything is changing aside from the weather. On top of our normal routine we now have gift shopping, house decorating and travel packing so sometimes our dogs get shorted the outdoor time that we had time and sunlight for since the end of last winter, making the holiday changes even harder for them.

This article will help you to put yourself in your dog’s shoes so you can understand their needs. Plan on devoting some of your awareness and a bit of time and effort to dog prep so you can ensure their holiday is merry and bright.

Some of us will be staying home and maybe popping out for a meal, which requires little dog prep aside from making sure they are nice and tired before you leave and keeping your outing to six hours tops.

For those who are:

• Hosting a gathering or housing out of towners

• Traveling with their dog

• Leaving their dog with someone they know or at a facility

I wanted to offer my expert insight.

As I started writing this guide I realized that no matter the situation, the core pillars of my advice was the same.

How cool is that?

I divided this article by topic for a reason: because I don’t want you to just skim to the scenario you are doing this year. I would love for dog owners to read the entire article and develop a complete understanding of how each training tool applies to each dog scenario. Chances are you will be in each of these situations someday, and possibly around another dog in all of these situations next week. I’d like you to be able to advocate not just for your own dog, but to be a good steward for all dogs, perhaps by sharing some of these tips with the dog owners you meet.

Let’s break it down:

EXERCISE IS ALWAYS KEY

As the old adage says, a tired dog is a good dog. Exhausting your dog isn’t a complete training solution, but I will tell you that I ask every dog owner I talk to on the phone how much exercise their dog gets and 80% of them aren’t getting enough. If we aren’t giving these natural athletes a healthy and appropriate outlet for their energy it’s harder for them to be calm, sit still, thoughtfully engage with their environment and exercise self control.

Most dogs would thrive on a minimum of 30-120 minutes of exercise once or twice a day. Yup. Depending on age, breed and fitness some dogs need upwards of 4 hours of exercise a day so choose your pup carefully.

Exercise is a stellar first line of defense when it comes to changes in routine like big events, new environments, or longer than normal stays at home alone (just be sure to monitor your dog’s post activity water intake and time your outing, their drinking, your departure time and how likely their bladder is to be empty). If walks are tough then put my eCourse on your holiday wish list!

🎉 Are you hosting this holiday? 

Your dog will probably be excited that new people are staying with you or coming over, which is totally understandable. The best best best thing you can do for your dog is exercise!! A tired dog will still be excited, but more likely to express it as a happy wag than non-stop jumping or zoomies around they room. They will settle faster and be more likely to be in a mindset where they can hear your instructions and complete your commands. Go on a double long walk before guests arrive while you are frantically cleaning or cooking? YUP!

• Lay out some warm clothes the night before so you can get up for sunrise and squeeze in that longer walk

• Add a backpack with a water bottle or soup can on each side so you can get a little more muscle engagement for each step

• Drive to a hiking trail to add some uneven terrain to the mix

Remember: A mentally engaged walk will be just as tiring (if not more) than letting your dog run wild! As for sections of “heel” between sniff breaks, add in “weird walking” and changes of pace, throw in a few tricks or commands every now and then and ask them to “wait” right next to you instead of diving to sniff. This will all help tired your dog out and get them in that mentally engaged mindset that we need to receive company calmly.

Simply too busy? I get that. Know thyself and start calling around now to your regular dog walker, neighbor friends, friends with dogs of their own or who are fans of your dog and find someone to help you out! Know that dog trainers and anyone who boards will likely be busy, but if you are a current/past client (shout out to dog owners who build a relationship with a trainer!) they may be able to help you out. Yes, it feels weird to ask someone to work on a holiday, but some of us don’t have family around, don’t celebrate for whatever reason and would be HAPPY for the chance to earn some extra cash. I’m a huge fan of local Buy Nothing groups and there may be someone in your ‘hood who loves dogs and could use some fresh air who can take yours out for an hour.

✈️ Are you traveling by car or plane? 

I start exercising any dog that is going to fly two days before the trip and make it a priority to get them out for double the amount of time I usually do at minimum. Is this a bit of an inconvenience? Yup! Is my dog’s comfort a priority? Also yes, so I’m happy to do it. Take breaks every 2-4 hours when driving, ideally at a park or trail so your dog can eliminate and stretch their legs. Be careful letting them drink as much water as they like because they are going to have to hold it again! This is another reason I don’t let dogs “run wild” to “get their energy out” at pit stops. 

When you land in a new place getting your dog out should be the first thing you do. (Pro tip: I make peeing a prerequisite to any new door opening when I’m taking my dog places. Only dogs with empty bladders get to enter new houses!) Your dog doesn’t know that you are excited to visit with whoever you came to see or tired from the journey. Drop your bags, tell mom to put on her shoes and catch up on a walk before you settle in for human time. If it’s dark when you arrive then make sure you have a reflective leash and vest for you and/or your dog or get an LED leash for night walks. This gear is readily available and removes the “it’s too dark” excuse. We gotta do right by our dogs and get our butts out there with them!

Make sure that your dog gets an extra special outing before any group gatherings. Being in a new place is exciting enough, but going somewhere new with a lot of people and other pets or being in a semi-new environment that becomes suddenly full one day will never not be exciting. Get them out for a good walk in the morning. Take them into the yard (go with them!) for potty and play breaks. Grab your favorite person and ask them to join you to dip out on a walk or hike for some 1-1 time. Check the meal timing with your host and plan your dog outing accordingly. Meeting your dog’s needs is one of the most important things you can do everyday, but especially on a holiday.

🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?

Your border -professional or not- will thank you for having a tired dog dropped off. Just because you are paying them doesn’t mean you can shirk dog care for that day. I always talked to clients and made sure they could drop their dog before my midday outing. Otherwise they knew they needed to get a walk in before dropping off. A dog whose exercise needs have been even moderately met is more likely to engage with a new environment and the humans or animals in it in a more thoughtful and less explosively excited way. You only have one chance to make a first impression and you can set your dog up for a crappy stay if they come in crazy. Owners are always say saying goodbye, even a temporary one, and a walk together on the day you are separating is really the best way to bond and share the present moment. (be sure to check out my article on proper “goodbye” etiquette before you drop your dog!)

Let your sitter know how much exercise your dog usually gets a day and BE HONEST! I have had so many owners lie up and tell me their aspirational level of activity instead of how much they really walk their dog. I figure out pretty quickly they fibbed when the dog is exhausted mid-outing, sore and losing weight, which is super unfair to both sitter and dog. Be honest about your normal routine of what kind of activity you do for how long and usually at what times of day. Give an honest range and let them know the minimum they can get away with before they can expect behavior problems. Even I get pretty annoying when I’m sitting around more than I’m used to! 

EVERY DOG SHOULD BE COMFORTABLE IN THE CRATE

This isn’t just one of those “dog trainer” things for no reason. The crate should be a comfortable and safe place for your dog because it’s almost inevitable that they will be in one at some point in their life whether you think it’s necessary or not. Let me explain why the crate is key this holiday season (and here is a guide to how to get them acclimated, which you should start ASAP)

If you don’t regularly use the crate you can’t just shove them in out of the blue. Start now and crate this week at bedtime, for midday naps and when you go out. Make the crate a “special treat” place and give them a bully stick or marrow bone or frozen kong that they can only have in the crate. Feed meals in there so it’s not just the room they get closed in. Drag the crate around the house and have them chill in the crate in your office while you work or in the living room while you watch tv at night.

🎉 Are you hosting this holiday?

You want to enjoy your day on top of the responsibilities of preparing the food, cleaning the house, getting your table instaworthy and making sure uncle Joe doesn’t drink too much or talk about politics. You already devoted an hour or two to getting your dog out and now people are starting to arrive, but there isn’t a spare adult who can be trusted to keep them on leash and ensure they are calm and polite to each new arrival. That makes the crate is the perfect place for them to be!!

Make sure the crate is in a quiet room that no one will go into. Print out a “Do not enter” sign for the door. Consider getting a white noise machine or setting up an old phone or your computer to jam those sweet white noise tunes for them. Consider purchasing a DAP adapter to bring those chill pheramones into the room. If your dog is tired they should have no problem taking a nap away from the hustle and bustle, especially if you disable your doorbell or hang a “come on in” sign on the front door.

Once you are on top of your party prep and ‘to do’s’ you can bring your dog out on leash for a quick potty break and some visiting, but consider putting them away again before the meal begins. Keep reading the rest of this article for more on that!

✈️ Are you traveling?

While I don’t crate in the car, many owners choose to and it can be a safe and relaxing space for a dog to ride (as long as the bedding you choose doesn’t make them too hot!). Any dog on a plane will need to be well acclimated to a crate or carrier and it’s not too late to start! I got Arrow the beach dog comfortable in a crate in less than two weeks and you can see how in my course Two Weeks To Trained. 

I always traveled with a crate for Harley because of her separation anxiety. It gave me huge peace of mind to know that she was somewhere familiar no matter where we went - her crate! The crate also kept her safe from getting into anything that could choke her, make her bleed, poison her or fall on her. It was a relief to know the house was safe from any potential chewing, clawing, peeing or pooing. Personally I would never leave a dog free in a house they weren’t acclimated to, which means 3-4 days of being with them 24/7. It’s much easier to bring home with you and travel with a fold up wire crate. 

Flying or don’t have room in the car? I got you! You can buy one wherever you go because they are almost always readily available and super cheap used on Craigslist or FB Marketplace. All it takes is a rag, some bleach water or all purpose cleaner and a few carabiners to double lock the latches for you to be crate ready! I also buy a sheet (not blanket!) to cover the crate and a few towels (not fuzzy blankets!) for bedding at Goodwill. You can be set up for dog safety for as little as $30.

I highly recommend against leaving your dog alone somewhere new without crating them. It’s just not worth the risk to their health and safety or a huge ass bill for damages the crate would have prevented.

🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?

I boarded dogs in my home and any dog who wasn’t crate trained was automatically a “board and train” and would cost 60% more per night. To be in a new environment AND be getting crate trained was stressful for everyone involved and eventually I stopped working with any dogs who hadn’t done training with me.

If you are leaving your dog at a facility they will likely be in a crate or kennel and not being conditioned to those containers will create a lot of added and unnecessary stress.

If you are boarding “in home” with someone who takes multiple dogs be VERY wary if they say they don’t crate as a selling point. That means that overnight or if they leave a group of dogs who don’t know each other are loose and unattended, which, worse case scenario, can result in a death or trip to the emergency vet.

If you are leaving a dog with a friend who doesn’t have dogs, their house may not be dog proof, meaning that when they are out or sleeping your dog can get into something they shouldn’t. Their window set up may be different and your dog could claw at blinds to get a better view of a passer-by out front or squirrel out back. They could have food where they thought it was out of reach, but your dog decides they want to try jumping on a counter for the first time. Maybe their door doesn’t latch the same and your dog figures out how to paw the handle and gets out. Why worry about the “what ifs” when you can just send your pup with their crate from home and enjoy your trip?

If your friend does have a dog, even one who your dog knows well, two dogs is different than one and the unexpected should be considered. A fight could break out over food if the new dog decides a trash can looks tippable. The dogs could egg each other on and have a BLAST dissecting a couch or chair. The host dog could get possessive over a toy or water bowl or bone that got buried or forgotten under a couch. A dog doesn’t need a history of these behaviors - it only takes one time for it to happen for the first time. You can ask that your dog be crated in a room with a closed door when no one is home. Let them know ahead of time and set up the crate yourself so it’s no hassle to them. They also may not have considered these potential dangers. After having watched HUNDREDS of dogs in my home I’ve seen it all so please heed my ‘worst case scenario’ warnings and just crate for dog’s sake!

LEASHES WORK INDOORS, TOO

Are you unsure how your dog is going to respond? Worried they will be nervous or over excited? The leash is one of the most underutilized tools because people think of it only being used for outside. Keep that baby on! At least until your dog is super chill and you feel confident about their being comfortable and making good choices.

I keep dogs on leash until they are dead calm and totally used to the environment. You may have your dog on leash next to you all night. You may decide to crate them instead of letting them free. You may let them off and put them back on again. You could leash them for the meal and make sure you sit on the corner seat so they can sit next to you. Maybe you tether them to a heavy piece of furniture at least 15’ from the table (just make sure you can stop them from barking or whining!). You might grab the leash when the kids start playing or if they can’t help themselves from getting underfoot during the post-meal football scrimmage. 

If your dog is nervous, leash them.

Too excited? Leash.

Not listening? On the leash!

🎉 Are you hosting this holiday? 

80% of your guests don’t want to be jumped on or listen to you yell at your dog in the first .02 seconds they are in your home and the other 20% are silly. Jumping isn’t a compliment and while your sister may love it, your toddler nephew, injured aunt or elderly neighbor can be hurt or traumatized and have their day ruined. Read my article on greeting guests and schedule a ‘dog training cocktail party’ this weekend. All you have to do is buy two bottles of wine, leash your well exercised dog and follow the instructions in the article. 

Even if you just use the leash day of you can help your dog learn that they can greet guests only when all four feet are on the ground and they aren’t barking or frantically pulling towards them. If they can’t figure that out, call me the Monday after Thanksgiving! There is a simple fix.

✈️ Are you traveling?

Make sure your tired and pottied dog stays on the leash when you enter someone’s house. The same way you shouldn’t run from room to room inspecting your host’s possessions that is TOTALLY unnecessary for your dog to do, too. Have your dog sit next to you when you come in and ask people not to greet them until they are calm. Take them on leash into the backyard to sniff around before letting them off, especially if you have a boy dog and your host has outdoor furniture. 

If your host has a dog, introduce them by going for a short walk together instead of in the doorway, living room or backyard. Dog Dating: How to Pick the Right Playmate If they have a cat, keep your dog on leash the whole time. Whether or not they are ‘cat friendly’ a new cat can not translate as a friend and no one wants to have a cat funeral this holiday.

Leashing your dog isn’t cruel. After all, you already read the beginning of this article and your dog is going to be dead tired. It can be really loving to keep them on leash and let them know where and how to be. Then they get to rest next to you knowing that if you move they will feel the leash jingle and wake up. Truly!! Your dog will rest easier on leash. 

🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?

Don’t let them bomb into a new house and frantically smell all the smells. Let the new environment play second fiddle to the clear guidance you are giving them to sit, stay close, but not too close and wait next to you without pulling on leash. A calm introduction into a new place will set everyone there up for success. You want to pass the leash off to the new handler, not make them chase your dog down the moment you close the door.

FOOD CAN CAUSE FIGHTS

For real, food is one of the biggest danger zones for dogs. Not only does it totally change the dog dynamic and cause fights, it can lead to dogs jumping on or nipping at kids, choking on bones, pushing a chocolate cake off the counter then eating it along with the shards of broken glass from the pan it was in so you need to spend the rest of your day force feeding your dog cotton balls covered in peanut butter and looking for signs of intestinal punctures or poisoning. Yup, that’s a true story (and luckily not mine!).

No matter your holiday plans, it’s good practice everyday of the year to:

• Never feed a dog off your plate or while you are eating

• Ask your dog to stay “out” of your personal space and not bark, whine or stare into your soul so deeply they can see every meal your past lives have had while you eat

• Teach the “place” or “go to your bed” command so you can send them away if they are annoying you

• Be able to separate dogs who seem to be competing for closeness to that precious resource

• Have a “no dogs under the chair or table” rule, especially if there are more than one of them

Don’t forget that eating food outside of their regular diet because it’s a special occasion can cause some especially gross poos and a festive trip to the emergency vet, which will be busy because not everyone will have read this article and costs exponentially more than a regular vet if you haven’t been. 

Foods that are fatty (like the turkey skin you pushed to the edge of your plate) salty (like, well, everything) or sweet (everything else) can be dangerous for your dog. Cooked bones can splinter and puncture a dog’s intestines or choke them. Bread, nuts, nutmeg, alcohol, garlic, onion and dairy are all no-no’s. If you’d like to BYO can of pumpkin or green beans or peas to add something special to your dog’s food then go for it! Once it has oil, butter or salt on it, it’s a no go.

🎉 Are you hosting this holiday?

Your tired dog who isn’t on leash or crated should be able to respond to the “out” command from the kitchen, serving area, dining table or lap of person eating a cheese cracker on the couch instantly. If they can’t, then they need to be on leash or crated. Think how much more you will enjoy your meal and guests if you aren’t worried about where your dog is or what they are doing?

Remember that dog training is handler specific so even though your dog doesn’t jump on you or beg you for food, the same won’t be true of a child or your guest who already gave them excessive attention. 

Also remember that humans are harder to train and even though you ask them not to feed your dog, they don’t see the harm in sneaking them a few bites of food. Crating your dog or having them on leash next to you ensures a merry meal for all!

✈️ Are you traveling? 

As a good house guests you may choose to leave your dog crated where you are staying or in a quiet room. Since they are exhausted they won’t mind and won’t know what they are missing. If you really want your dog with you and don’t think they’d mind the crowds, be mindful of the space, other animals and be very realistic about their food manners. You may think it’s cute when they slither up the couch to steal the kernel of popcorn from your fingers but if you don’t know the guestlist where you are going chances are someone there won’t find their bite stealing as charming.

If you are visiting a home with another dog, ask their owner to make sure that all food bowls, treats, bone and special toys are picked up and put away before you get there. My dog would ignore a bully stick for weeks then run to it the moment another dog came over to get it before they could and trot off with it or happily start munching it in front of them, tauntingly till I took it away and put it on top of the fridge (a super spot for dog safety). All it takes is ONE first time incident for a dog to be a resource guarder so I have learned it’s better to have no resources to be guarded.

🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?

Ask that your friend not feed them human food and if there is more than one dog present then send them this article. When I would eat with a house full of dogs I would make sure they were all 5-10’ from me and a few feet apart from each other. I never left anything on a coffee table if I was leaving the room and I never let any of them think they had any sort of seniority when it came to special resources. I would feed dogs one at a time in the kitchen or put bowls down in crates or in separate rooms and watch them while they ate, then pick up all the bowls immediately.

Your friend may be used to their dog never inspecting human plates on the coffee table, but having a second dog present can change things quickly. It’s best for us humans to make sure we are practicing good food manners as we ask dogs to practice them, too.

THE BEST OWNERS HAVE BOUNDARIES

I think part of the reason so many of us struggle with dogs is that we are uncomfortable being clear. We don’t want to tell someone when their dog is making us or our dog uncomfortable. We don’t want to be seen as fussy when we give a stranger or friend, guest or family member instructions on our training protocol. On top of that, people don’t take well to receiving instruction and are likely to snap or ignore us, which brings up a secondary conversation about respecting boundaries.

I say LEAN IN. Relationships need to be based on honesty - us being honest about who we are, how we feel and what we want. If someone thinks you are fussy for asking for things to be a certain way with your dog, text them a link to this article or learn to shrug it off. You have an obligation to advocate for your dog. That may mean not bringing them to a certain place, around a certain person, or deciding when it’s time to put them up.

If you can ask people to help you with some (reasonable) training tasks in your effort to create the best dog possible, most will be willing to, but know your audience and come up with some elegant excuses.

I find the most important thing in sharing feedback is to be non-emotional and matter of fact. No one is psychic and knows what you want them to do or not do! Don’t assume anyone knows anything about dogs or your training protocol and is doing something intentionally to undermine you. I like to share tips or requests, cleanly and clearly. 

“Oh hey, could you…”

“Actually I’m training my dog to…”

Or a favorite “My trainer insisted….” Throw me on under that bus, folks. I don’t mind!

The first step of having boundaries is being VERY clear on what’s important to you. What is your ideal situation? Play it out step by step. The more clearly you can visualize it and the more details you can think through the better. What are your “hell no’s”? Those are important to know, too! If it’s not a yes or a no then it’s in the gray area and can easily move into the yes or no pile depending how things are going.

I may request that company not to pet, talk to or stare at my dog when they first come in if they dog is jumping or excited. I definitely don’t want anyone feeding the dog, especially if there is more than one around. I may put a sign on the door that says to come in without ringing the bell or knocking. A  “Do not enter” sign on the guestroom or laundry room helps prevent guests from disturbing your sleeping pup. You can ask your niece not to wrestle with your dog and ask your company with kids not to let the kids pet or play with the dog unless you are there watching.

For me, my “hell no’s” are jumping, whining, barking, pawing, zooming, knocking into people, furniture, not stopping what they are doing when asked, playing inside and taking what isn’t theirs. Again, having a tired dog on leash or in the crate is an easy win, but if you want to get jiggy with it and let your dog free, at least have a clear vision you can use to draw lines for your dog, the space, and the humans around you.

🎉 Are you hosting this holiday? 

Don’t be afraid to put a note in the invitation/reminder email, a sign on the door or give guests a few instructions depending on what your dog needs, what will be most difficult for them, or what you are working on in your training. We can’t ask toooo much of our company, but we can ask a bit, particularly if something guests typically do typically goes badly for your dog.

Aside from general guidelines you may share to prevent issues, boundaries may also need to be expressed verbally and in the moment. Think about requests you have had to make in the past and practice some scripts in your imagination or with someone who won’t tease you about it.

“Turkey is relaxing on his bed right now. Let’s let him rest and you can play with him later when he gets up.”

“Sweet Potato is getting a little too excited. Let’s take a break from rough housing for a while. I don’t want her to keep playing and have something accidentally go wrong.”

“I think Gravy needs a break from the festivities. I’m going to put her in her crate for a nap.”

“Pumpkin seems a little restless, who wants to take a walk with us?”

“I’m not sure Stuffing is enjoying this type of play. Can you call Green Bean over to you so I can put her away for a little while?”

“Dumbstick wasn’t listening so he is going to sit next to me on the leash for a little while. You can pet him later though!”

✈️ Are you traveling?

Even if you are a guest in someone’s house you still have the right to ask them to engage with your dog in a way that prioritizes the dog’s comfort, reinforces a calm and cooperative mentality and doesn’t undermine your training. However, know your audience! If your parents won’t listen and even after a direct conversation are constantly undermining your dog-boundaries then consider staying somewhere else or leaving your dog at home.

If there are too many unknowns, leave your tired dog in a crate. If you bring them out of the crate, enlist the help of others before you do so. “I’m going to see if I can get Yam out to join us for a bit. Would y’all mind just not trying to greet her until she is calm? It might take her a minute so I’ll let you know a good time to say hi. Thank you for helping me!”

If you and your dog are a guest in someone’s home it’s great to have a quick chat about their preferences and boundaries before you arrive. Do they prefer to have no dogs on the furniture? That is something you should start practicing asap. Are they going to be sensitive to dog hair? Bring your grooming gloves and use them every day starting the week before you leave. Where do they want poo bags to go? Are they okay with your dog sleeping in the bed? Do they have room for a crate? Do a quick check in when you make the plans so you can be sure that you are on the same page and bringing your dog will be festive for everyone

🏡 Boarding your dog or leaving them with a friend?

Especially if the dog care is free, we can only ask so much. As long as your dog is safe and in good company we can be glad they are having a good time and pick up training when we get home. If you are paying a professional then you can raise your expectations slightly, but there are plenty of people in the dog care industry who you will know more about dogs than after just having read this article. 

Think about what is most important for your dog’s safety. Do they dart out of open doors? (You should really work on that after this trip!) Can they open gates or have they dug under a fence? Are they safe off leash? Is it maybe safer to just send a long line and ask the sitter to keep them on leash for this week? Have they ever been possessive over a toy or bone or their food bowl? Let your sitter know to keep all of those picked up if there is more than one dog around.

A sitter doesn’t need to follow all of your good training protocol and giving them a full download of the eCourse at drop off will likely overwhelm them. It will be amazing how fast you can get it back when you come home! Pick what is most important for their safety and maybe one or two good training boundaries. If you use a tool like the eCollar or Slip Lead then consider having a few pre-board training walks together to get them used to it or throwing on a harness they can’t slip out of to protect your dog’s neck from unskilled hands who haven’t developed the kind of sensitivity to pressure that yours have and that the slip lead requires.

Remember that the holidays are not an ideal time to sign your dog up for Board and Train because it’s highly likely your trainer will have other clients’ dogs boarding when they travel. If you are signing up for training during this time, be sure that your trainer knows your top 3 complaints or goals so they can focus on troubleshooting that for you and getting in the reps.

ENJOY YOUR HOLIDAY, DOG EXPERT!

I hope this article has not only given you some game changing tools for this holiday season, but a deeper understanding of how dogs think and how we can be good owners and advocates for them.

Tire them out.

Let them miss the party.

Keep them on leash.

Be careful around food, it changes the game.

Tell people what you need and know when to call it.

Remember, your dog doesn’t know what a holiday is and they won’t be sad to miss the party if attending could lead to someone, anyone, having a not so good time because of it. I always vote for a good, long hike in the morning then a nice nappy nap. Plus if uncle Joe does get into politics, your dog waiting for you at home is the perfect excuse to bail!

How to make your dog’s crate a great place

That is a fabulous idea! When determining if a dog was eligible to board with us, we always ask if the dog is crate trained. Trainers do it. Vets do it. Groomers do it. Airplanes do it. Boarding facilities do it. At some point, your dog’s life will include being crated, so you should do it, too.

I am a trainer who loves crates! I love them because I know that my dog and my home are both safe when I’m out. Dogs love being in crates  when the crate is comfortable, covered with a sheet, and feels like a den. As long as your dog is getting enough exercise every day, they don’t need to be free in the house while you’re out. Being free in the house can sometimes be stressful for a dog. Especially when our dogs are home alone. Having free run of the house can feel like we are asking them to protect the house. This can be taxing and exacerbate stress barking or separation anxiety. It can also lead to scratched doors, chewed furniture and potty accidents.

No dog is too old: but it's a good idea to introduce your dog to the crate as a puppy. 

It’s better to create a positive experience than to try to fix a bad one, so take your time. 

Picking the right crate

As you can see in the photos, my favorite crate is wire because it allows for maximum airflow. Unless you are conditioning your dog to fly in an airplane there is no need to get a solid plastic sided crate. The soft crates are relatively useless because they are so easy to get out of and should be avoided. Expensive heavy duty crates are only necessary for true escape artists - which your dog isn’t likely to become if you introduce them to the crate in the way I describe.

You can easily find a used wire crate on Craigslist, Nextdoor or Facebook Marketplace for under $50 and disinfect it with a diluted bleach solution that you then rinse off and let dry in the sun. If you have a growing puppy this can be the best option. You might buy a larger crate for the size you expect them to be and block off unneeded space as they grow, but if you err on the side of too large you may end up trading it out anyway.

To find the right size measure your dog from nose to tail and top of head to the floor. That should be the bottom dimensions so your dog can lay flat on their side with their legs extended. You also want to make sure the height allows for them to stand without ducking. You don’t need to feel guilty leaving a dog in a well sized crate because they can’t be more comfortable than that outside of it. If your crate is so small that your dog has to curl their legs to lay down and they don’t have room to stretch that is similar to trying to sleep in the backseat of a small car with no room to stretch your legs and it would be understandable if they didn’t like spending time in there.

Generous pet owners may try to get a larger crate, but your dog doesn’t really need room to take any steps and for potty training puppies more space could allow them to designate one side as the bathroom and the other as the bedroom, which we don’t want.

Start by making your crate a nice cozy space in the common area. You could even pick up your other dog beds so the crate is the comfiest place in the room. Think of it like their bedroom or a little dog cave. 

• You can get a cute vintage sheet from a second hand store large enough to drape over your crate so it reaches the floor. A nice color or pattern keeps the crate from being an eyesore and a covered space feels more contained to your pup, like a bedroom or cave. You want to be sure you invest minimally at this point because your crate cover could get torn up in a frustrated moment during the learning process. Do NOT use a blanket or towel or custom crate cover because these do not allow for as much airflow and trap the body heat dogs let off. You want your dog’s space to be the same temperature as the climate controlled room they are in.

• For the bedding, start simple with a bed or towel. There is a chance that it may get chewed in the learning stages, so don’t start out by putting your finest dog bedding in there. 

  • Lots of owners wash blankets before it goes in the crate. I can assure you that your dog does not appreciate the fresh scent of Tide. The best bedding is something you have slept with, sat on or otherwise gotten your scent on. Shoving new blankets in the dirty clothes bin (after an initial wash for chemical residue) is heavenly for a dog. Don’t judge ‘em! Show your love by giving the pup the stinky bedding they want.

After you have made the crate as cozy as possible, start making it happy by building positive associations.

• First get some really high quality treats. From now on, at least for a while, this will be a crate only delicacy - gotta be in the crate if you want to enjoy it! 

  • For this I like freeze dried treats, bully sticks, pigs ears, frozen marrow bones or whatever else makes your dog happy.

• Lead your dog to the crate, toss the treat in the back, then help guide your dog in with encouraging words, and happy energy. You can stick your arm inside to pat the bedding and wave the treat. Once they pop in, give pets, scratches and verbal praise,

  • If this doesn’t work, you can add a few little leading tugs on the collar or ‘pulsing’ pushes on your dog’s booty. 

• Then, once they are able to stand in there for a few seconds without you holding or blocking them, slowly let them out. You don’t want a starting gate break, just a casual saunter. 

  • If you are feeding a long chewing treat like a bully stick or marrow bone, toss it back into the crate if they try to bring it out to enjoy. 

  • You can sit by the open crate or close it and stay within the view of the opening that isn’t covered by the sheet.

  • If the treat isn’t enough to keep your dog occupied, take time sitting with them by the open crate and petting them while they are inside. *Whatever motivates your dog, reserve it and try to associate it with the crate. 

Once your pup is comfortable with the space, start feeding all meals in the crate. For most dogs, you haven’t shut the door yet as we are just acclimating. 

• Food should be placed against the back wall. 

  • If your dog chooses to miss a meal avoiding the crate, that is okay! Sometimes people skip meals too and they’re alright. Your dog will likely eat the next one. Good things come to those who get in their crate.

When your dog has a meal or two in the crate, go ahead and try shutting the door while they eat, first staying in the room. 

• Shut the door. Open the door. 

  • The door is shut momentarily at first so your dog knows they won’t be in there forever. You can do this many times a day, leaving the door shut for seconds, then minutes, growing longer each time.

• Shut the door for the whole meal and let your dog out after they are done but before they whine or fuss. 

  • If your dog does start to whine, it’s very important that you don’t let them out till they have settled for at least 5-10 seconds. Otherwise you teach them the way out is to whine and you will very much regret creating that association! An important factor in crate training success is how tired your dog is. Trying to get an energetic dog to settle and be happy in a crate is an uphill journey.

• Try to work your crate training schedule to follow some good vigorous exercise, some water drinking, then potty time. Your dog should be happy to kennel up at that point!

  • If you have a lot of energy, you don't want to be forced to sit still! If you are exhausted, however, you are happy to bring on a comfy place to rest where you don’t have to worry about being bothered. The first time you leave your house, it’s only going to be for a second. Literally a second. 

• Crate your dog, walk around the house for a few minutes doing chores or something other than your ‘getting ready to leave’ routine. Then without saying anything to your dog, walk out your door, shut it, take one breath, then walk back in, again not saying anything to your dog. 

  • If your dog is alert, but not whining, you can let them out, being sure to ignore any excited behavior. 

  • If they are whining, wait for them to settle. 

  • If they are pretty content, maybe try leaving them in and going outside for another round. 

• You want to briefly crate your dog then go in and out of your door as many times as possible this week, making it longer and longer till you can sit outside for 15 minutes playing on your phone or doing those push ups you have been putting off. 

• After that, try to go run a quick errand.

Coming out of the crate is a great opportunity to practice the ‘wait’ command. In our training sessions we talk about impulse inhibition, your dog’s ability to regulate himself and his emotions. 

• Wait until your dog has calmed themself before you even approach the crate. 

  • If your dog’s excitement level rises as you approach, stop, turn away, take a few steps back, or even leave the room so your dog can calm down.

  • You want to teach your dog that only a calm pup gets let out.”Calming down is the toll you have to pay at the crate door.”

• Lean down to unlatch the door and say “waaaait” in a calm, low voice. 

  • If your dog is overly excited they won't do very well here, so their excitement level has to be at a moderately contained stage before we begin.

• Start to open the door,  and say, “wait” again, and slowly increase the size of the gap, staring at the base of the crate and watching your dog from your peripheral vision. 

  • If your dog makes a move for the opening,quickly close it. Even if your dog has squeezed part way through, grab them and put them back in. 

  • It is really important that they don’t dart out of crates, or out of any doors. To be honest, there should not be a lot of darting going on, period. 

  • Frantically rushing out the opening can make your dog feel more anxious about being in and let out of your crate. 

• Once the door is fully open, slowly stand up, still watching your dog out of the corner of your eye. Be ready to shut that door if your dog makes a run for it. 

• After you get all the way up, I’ll take a breath and wiggle your shoulders to be sure your tension isn’t what is holding your dog in place. 

• Then, with calm energy say “okay” or “let’s go” and slowly start to walk away, ready to correct any jumping, whining or over excitement.

 Many a crate training has been disrupted by whining. When people hear a dog whine, they associate it with crying and assume their dog is distressed. Most of the time it’s more of a temper tantrum. Your dog is frustrated because, likely, they almost always get what they want and right now they want to be with you instead of in their crate. When we let our dog out in response to whining we teach them that they can have their way and that whining is the way to get there. You will surely earn yourself more whining by responding favorably to it. Even though, whining is unpleasant, your dog needs to understand, just like a toddler, that ‘go to bed’ means ‘go to bed’ and it isn't a negotiation. 

• First ignore the whine, go about your business. This is called waiting for the behavior to go extinct by not rewarding it. Sometimes it works, so always try it first, but often this alone won’t do the job.

  • Be prepared for the ‘extinction burst.’ This is another term that means it will get worse before it gets better. Basically, your dog is going to pull out all of the stops, and if not even that works, then, and only then will they extinguish the behavior.  

If ignoring the whining doesn’t make it stop,don’t suffer in silence. Try to find a way to express to your dog that nothing bad is happening and they need to accept that the crate, like a dentist appointment, is just part of life. 

• Start with a verbal correction that you will deliver without going into the room or, ideally, even stopping what you are doing. Call out a firm, but gentle “eh’eh” or say “dog no” or “quit” and then wait a beat to see what happens.

  • If your dog stops, great! If not, increase the pressure. Call again with more intensity from another room. 

  • If your dog is really fussing, go right into the room where the crate is and repeat your verbal correction. 

  • It’s important to remember that your dog wants you to come into the room to let them out, so you need to be sure that your dog knows the moment you cross the threshold that the desired result has not been achieved. In fact, this isn’t a version of you he recognizes at all. You have booty kicking energy and should not be messed with. Say “QUIT” in a loud, sharp voice then stomp out of the room, closing the door. 

  • If this doesn’t work, it’s trainer time! Give us a call to get a hand dealing with the tough to train pup who seems resistant to my ‘best of crate training’ suggestions. Sometimes there are relational cues that we give our dog in other areas that can undermine our training results.