Giving and receiving mindfully with dogs

What I’m passionate about teaching people, the work I feel I have to do in the world to advocate for dogs, what I know to be true is that dogs are a different species and so many of the behaviors we struggle with are rooted in how we see them and how that leads us to treat them in a way that is not appropriate for who they are as animals or helpful for our greater goals with them.

We love giving to our dogs. We take pride in it. They are the screen savers on our phones, we wear shirts that say ‘pet parent,’ we base our identity off bring a dog owner because it’s such a big and important part of our lives. We love giving to our dogs, but sometimes we don’t always know what they need, what they want, or how to balance that with what we feel best when giving.

The Wheel of Consent

I love this concept and I think it is a great way of better understanding our interactions with our dogs as well as with people. Betty Martin came up with a four quadrant diagram to help us conceptualize a system of giving and receiving. We can give in a way that is generous or selfish and we can receive in a way that is fulfilling to us or doing a service for the giver.

Let’s say you are in a bad mood and I ask you simply “do you want to go for a walk?” I know that you usually enjoy walking and, while it isn’t exactly what I’d like to do in that moment, I think it would make you feel better so I suggest it. You have had a long day and are feeling tired, but you care about me and since I seem to want to go walk and desire your company, you agree. Then we have two people on a walk, neither of whom really want to be here! Betty’s chart helps give the clarity of intention and language to where I can say “would it make you feel better if I joined you for a walk?” to which you could say that you appreciated the offer and may take me up on it another time, but feel like resting. 

The Wheel of Consent ties in to our dogs to help us get clear on what a dog needs or enjoys

Serving - where you take an action to benefit the other

Taking - where you want something that will benefit you

Allowing - where you let another act the way they want

Accepting - where you benefit from the actions of the other

Serving and allowing are giving in nature while taking and accepting are receiving.

Let’s talk about dogs:

Serving - giving your dog one to two hours of exercise a day 

Yes! Any dog, any age. You may have to build up to it, but every dog would benefit from an hour outside the house engaged in an activity. Maybe it’s broken up into 20 minute chunks, but to me this is the minimum daily investment any good dog owner needs to make. If you are out with your dog less than a minimum of one hour every day, meet this daily quota for one month straight and your behavior problem may radically change.

Taking - rewarding your dog when they excitedly greet you at the door, hugging or holding your dog when they strain to get away, taking your dog to a patio to sit next to you in a loud, crowded, public space where they aren’t free to move or interact naturally (especially when you haven’t exercised them to the point of exhaustion that day)

These are actions we take with our dogs that benefit us, but really aren’t what our dog wants or needs. It feels good to have someone in our lives excitedly bound up to us when we get home, but by returning that excited energy, petting them, cooing to them, or pretty much doing anything but ignoring or correcting them, we are amplifying their anxiety at being left alone, rewarding an excited state (and what we reward we get more of!), teaching them bad manners for greetings that could scare or upset company and set a bad habit of generally greeting excitedly that will have a massive negative impact on their interactions with other dogs. We don’t realize the harm we can do by allowing ourselves this indulgence. After all, being excitedly greeted by our dog when we come in was one of the main perks of dog ownership our culture marketed to us. It’s part of why we got them, now the mean trainer lady is telling you that it isn’t good for the dog, your relationship with them, or their relationship with other animals and people. Sorry, everyone. Trust me, if I had better news I’d be sharing it.

Allowing - Teaching your dog to be safe off leash so they can interact with dogs, smell, move, run and explore naturally

We need to let dogs be dogs! Training seems to limit dogs being dogs in the stereotypical way we think of dogs. I find training doesn’t limit a dog’s life, it allows for it. I make sure my dog and I have a relationship where they listen to me unconditionally so I can keep them safe. I teach them to not let me get out of their sight so they don’t get lost. I teach them to come when called so they can keep enjoying the privilege of being free. I teach them to calmly greet other dogs so when I’m not holding the leash they don’t make dangerous choices. Yes, I’m limiting some of their natural behaviors, but these are the dark sides of their personality coin - the rude, pushy, impulsive, behaviors that could get them lost, in a fight, hit by a car, or even ordered to be euthanized.  By saying no to certain behaviors, I’m giving a big green light to something my dog will value above all else, the ability to move freely through the hiking trails and parks off leash. 

Accepting - Accepting their polite bids for attention and giving them scratches, pets, playing calm tug, and enjoying sweet kisses

Accepting is where we benefit from the actions of others that they also enjoy. Most of the time we think of the list above, enjoying our dogs’ affectionate expressions so we can engage in what we as humans know to be loving interactions. For me, what dogs allow us to do is something that we need and want even more than getting love - the opportunity to be of service. We want someone to give to, to consider, even to sacrifice for. 

After years of working with dogs, my list looks a little different. 

The way I serve a dog and the gift I accept from them is a higher calling for me to center within myself and BE who they need me to be so they can feel safe in the world. For their sake I am calm, confident, aware of the environment, deliberate about how we move through the world, mindful of their energy, where their attention is and if they are being impulsive and pushy or tuned in and respectful.

Yes, I miss out on some of the fun other dog owners have. I know better than to think a dog running wild or playing rough is having fun because I know that energy is one that is more likely to cause an accident or dog fight. I don’t let them run up to me, lean on me, push into my space or flip my hand for more pets because I know that it’s rude and will affect how they see me and how well they listen to me. I know that a dog dragging to a smell is learning to pull, be pushy and getting into an instinctive mindset that will lead to them getting in trouble either within a few minutes or at another time. 

While being a dog trainer and knowing what I know has meant giving up on a lot of things that our culture sees as the fun of dogs, I also get to enjoy things many owners never get to experience. I can be tuned in to dogs in a way that feels like having ESP. I can teach any dog to walk nicely on the leash and dogs who don’t pull get walked more. I help dogs learn to be safe off leash and after a lot of time saying ‘no’ to the things that aren’t allowed off leash, they get a life of ‘yes’ enjoying the trails.

How to know when it's time to let go

“Dogs, lives are short, too short, but you know that going in. You know the pain is coming, you're going to lose a dog, and there's going to be great anguish, so you live fully in the moment with her, never fail to share her joy or delight in her innocence, because you can't support the illusion that a dog can be your lifelong companion. There's such beauty in the hard honesty of that, in accepting and giving love while always aware that it comes with an unbearable price. Maybe loving dogs is a way we do penance for all the other illusions we allow ourselves and the mistakes we make because of those illusions.”

Dean Koontz - The Darkest Evening of the Year

When we get a dog we accept one sad fact - that we will outlive them. It’s something we don’t like to talk about or think about, but we know it in the back of our minds. We let the knowledge of this fact prompt us to be present and enjoy every moment together. 

An important part of loving our dogs is giving them a peaceful and graceful end of life. Instead, with a heart full of love, many well intentioned owners keep their dogs alive too long with uncomfortable medical interventions and only take the final step of euthanasia when their hand is forced instead of at a more compassionate time.

As my own dog gets older I’m learning about how the needs of a dog change with passing years. I’m making sure to keep Harley’s teeth clean, get yearly senior blood panels, keep her fit while being considerate of her diminishing stamina, and advocating for her when we are out in public by keeping large, excited puppies away from her so she doesn’t get hurt.

It’s important to start thinking about your end of life plan for your pet before you need to. When your dog gets older or ill, emotions will be running high and you won’t be able to think clearly. The most important thing to be guided by is their comfort and quality of life. My friend who recently lost his dog commented that he wished there was more advocacy for his dog’s comfort at his final diagnostic vet appointment. They offered to do tests and treatments, but didn’t talk about how to navigate the dying process with the dog's best interest leading the way.

Quality of Life

As your dog ages, keep checking in on their quality of life. Usually the decline is very gradual and shifts over time can be hard to notice day to day. It can help to compare their behavior not to yesterday or last week, but several months before as a way of checking in. 

Dogs are prone to hiding their pain or don’t express it in ways that we intuitively understand. These behaviors may indicate a dog is in pain:

• Irregular behavior patterns

• A higher than normal anxiety level

• Excessive panting or gasping for breath

• No longer enjoying or seeking out contact with you and the rest of the family

• Reluctance to move or consistent pacing especially at night; restlessness

• Avoidance of their favorite activities

• Changes in the dynamic between them and other pets in the house

• Seeking out unusual places to sleep or hide

While vets can offer painkillers that can manage pain, because it’s so hard for dogs to communicate the level or location of their pain, this isn’t as safe or sustainable of a long term option for dogs as it is for humans. 

It’s also a good idea to have a dollar number in mind of how much you are able to invest in your dog’s treatment or care. When considering potential testing or treatments, it’s important to consider the dog’s age, the invasiveness of the treatment, the potential side effects, probability of improvement and to weigh the costs and benefits. You can also consider alternative therapies like massage, acupuncture, chiropractic treatments, physical therapy and CBD as a way to improve or manage their quality of life. 

When things get hard

As dog’s age, there will often be a sudden decline. This is usually marked by a lack of interest in food and subsequent weight loss, drop in energy level, trouble breathing or moving around, change in coat or hygiene habits, and less frequent urination or incontinence. When you notice these symptoms, track them using a journal. You’ll want to keep track of bathroom activities, feeding time and amounts and any symptoms. 

At this time it’s a good idea to contact some in home euthanasia services so you have options arranged when the time comes. A trip to the vet can cause a dying dog additional stress, so having them euthanized at home is preferable even though the cost is higher. 

How to know when it’s time

Very few dogs die a natural and peaceful death. That is unfortunately an extremely rare way to go. You will most likely need to monitor your dog closely and decide when and how to euthanize them. Preventing your dog from having undue suffering and maximizing the enjoyment they have left should be your guiding pillars. Vets say that it is far better to be one week or one month too early than to be one or two days too late. This is a time where we truly need to put our dogs’ well being ahead of our own.

Remember, your dog is likely to hide their pain and to do what they have done their whole lives, try to please you. That means seeming more okay than they are and staying around for you. It’s important you know your bar for suffering before this stage so you can make the call you need to at the appropriate time. Afraid to end their pet’s life too early, many people wait too long, until the end is absolutely undeniably upon them and there is no other choice. This can involve a dog having seizures or other traumatic medical experiences that are ultimately unnecessary. It may be time to book the appointment when your dog shows:  

-lack of enjoyment in activities

-incontinence

-struggling to stand or walk 

-restlessness

-refusal to eat or drink

The OSU and ‘HHHHHMM’ Quality of Life scales can help you evaluate your dog’s quality of life using barometrics that can help take emotions out of the equation and make the decision somewhat less subjective.

Caring for a dying pet can take a toll on the caregiver as well. Don’t forget to take care of yourself. Be sure to eat, rest and ask for support. That can be in the form of people checking on you, helping to gather supplies, or attend to your pet so you can rest or run errands. 

Enjoying the last few days

Keeping your dog’s limitations in mind, help them enjoy their final days. The best gift you can give your dog in life and death is your presence. Resist the urge to self soothe with TV or social media and simply ‘be’ with them. You can lay a blanket in your yard and relax in the sun, take them for a car ride, feed them people food, go to the park, invite human and dog friends to come see them, let them smell all the smells and pee on everything they want to. 

Animals communicate nonverbally, so take this time to sit with your dog and hold some of your favorite memories in your mind and heart. Look through old photos and tell them stories of some of your favorite days together. Cry when you have to, but remember to hold a beautiful vision of your life together, of a peaceful transition, and of a future in which they return to oneness with all things beyond their physical form. A friend of mine likes to say of his dogs that passed “they are closer to me than ever.” While death is an ending, it isn’t the ending and your pet will always be in your heart.

Preparing your space

Doing the procedure at home is preferable to bringing your dog to a vet. You don’t have to transport them at this stage and they will be comfortable in a familiar environment. When your dog starts to decline, call around and talk to a few in home euthanasia services in your area so you know the prices and availability for when you are ready to book your appointment. Know that once the professional arrives at your house the process will be very fast so say your goodbyes before they arrive. 

You want your dog to have a comfortable place to lay. There is a chance they will release their bowels or bladder, so be prepared for that by laying garbage bags or a tarp below the towel or blanket they are on. Move furniture so that the professional and your family will have enough room to maneuver around. If your dog is still taking food, you may want to offer them some bacon or meat before or during the procedure.

While vets will give you the option to leave the room, we recommend that you stay with your dog so they can die in your arms. Vets say that when owners choose to leave the dog usually looks for them and is more distressed. After years of loyalty and affection, we owe it to our dogs to offer them all the comfort we can in their final moments, even if it is hard for us. 

What happens after

You have a few options when it comes to your dog’s remains. You can bury them on your or a friend’s property, put them in a pet cemetery, have them cremated, or have the vet or euthanasia service dispose of their body. No matter what option you chose, you will think of them everyday and they will live on in your heart. You may keep your dog at home, but not for longer than 24 hours in a cool room. You also want to be sure to sanitize the areas they were. The city of Austin offers a pick up service. Regardless of what you choose to do with their remains, you may want to create a memorial for them in a beloved spot you enjoyed together and plant a tree or plant.

The first few days after your dog’s death will be hard even though you have had some time to prepare. You may want to leave town so you aren’t in the home you shared without them. Plan on giving yourself plenty and time and space to feel and cry and remember and grieve. Grieving doesn’t have a start and end, but rather many layers that will unfold over time. Let yourself take the time you need. Let your friends support you by bringing food and sitting with you. Though there is no short cut, my advice for moving through grief is to eat, move, and spend time in nature every day. 

There are some grief support groups you can join to talk to other people who are going through the same thing. Grief is hard to discuss with people who aren’t in it. Even if the people close to you don’t know what to say or do, they still love you and want to be there for you. You can help guide people as best you can. Let them know they don’t need to make it better, just to physically be there, to listen and let you be sad.

Moving on

Though it may be tempting, we don’t recommend getting another dog on the heels of losing a dog. If you know anything about our style of training, we believe that the best way to love a dog is to maintain a stable nervous system. Anyone grieving won’t be able to send a new dog the leadership cues they need to trust you and feel comfortable as they begin their new life with you. There is also no dog that could replace the friend you lost. Some people say they resent the new dog for not being more like their old one and it takes longer to bond. 

You may want to enjoy the time between pets by taking a trip. If you miss having a walking companion, borrow a friend’s dog for a hike - chances are you know plenty of dogs not getting enough exercise. When you are ready, read our articles on picking the right dog, either from a reputable breeder or rescue and begin a new chapter of dog ownership.

Tips on adopting the right rescue dog

Rescuing a dog is a wonderful thing. There are many dogs that are in shelters because the owner moved, had a baby, didn’t have time or money to train the dog, the dog made one mistake or had one scary moment with a human or animal. Most of these dogs are very trainable and it is wonderful to give them a good home. When people ask what my favorite breed of dog is, I always say “a good dog,” but my real favorite dog is a good old fashioned mutt. With bad breeding abounding, my experience is that mutts are generally healthier and it’s fun to see the unique looks that come from accidental breedings.

Rescue organizations are not all as wonderful as they seem. Before I got Harley, I tried to adopt several dogs from different rescues and I was turned down over and over again. I was between jobs so I had the time, I was living with a dog trainer and studying dog training and I had carefully researched every breed so I knew exactly what I wanted and what kind of dog would be the best fit for me and my lifestyle. I got turned down because I had never owned a dog before, because I wasn’t working so I couldn’t afford one, because I was renting a room in a house and there was no assurance I wouldn’t move and return my dog if my new accommodation wasn’t dog friendly. Eventually I got on Craigslist and bought the most wonderful Miniature Dapple Dachshund from a backyard breeder in a trailer park outside of Phoenix, AZ.

My tips for beginning the adoption process:

• Don’t take the first dog you look at and like. I have experienced love at first sight, as I’m sure you have, and how often did that last? Finding the right dog is a process where you have to be smart and use discernment. When emotions lead, we may bite off more than we can chew, then both the owner and dog suffer. Tell the rescue you will be back later and sleep on it or loop back at the end of your search day. 

• I have had clients and friends find incredible dogs through Facebook, Craigslist, Next-door and other community websites or message boards or their personal social network. Tell your friends what you want and ask them to keep and eye out for you. This article focuses on shelters, but many of the same tips apply wherever your dog may come from.

• Drive out of the city you live in. As far as you can. On my hunt for the right rescue I looked up all the shelters in the surrounding 50 miles, created a route to hit all of them in order, and spent a day looking at dogs. There are amazing dogs at shelters in the country!  Urban rescues can be picked over and more expensive. Dogs are often misrepresented in their description, claiming to be friendly with kids, cats, other dogs, when they are not. These overfull rescues can care more about moving dogs out than about finding the right fit. Country shelters likely won’t have the resources to create these descriptions, forcing you to do these evaluations for yourself. My experience is that these shelters have amazing dogs who were dumped or just wandered out of an unfenced farm and no one came for them. This is the dog you want! A dog whose only fault was escaping a yard or slipping out of a property.

• When you arrive, remember that shelters are a really intense and stressful environment. A dog who is comfortable in that environment isn't the dog you want. It's easy to be seduced by the one dog who is happy and playful, wagging their tail and willing to fetch. Try to find balance between a dog that is calm and curious, but also not totally at ease in that environment.

• Think about what you want in terms of care throughout the dog’s life:

  • Long hair needs brushing and requires you to pay a groomer at regular intervals. 

  • Young puppies require starting from scratch with housebreaking, crate training, and will need more exercise for the first few years of their life. 

  • Working dogs and very intelligent breeds should only be adopted by experienced owners and need more activity and training. 

Did you know cattle dogs, Border Collies and Australian Shepherds, among others, really should get out 4-6 hours a day! That’s why they are perfect for ranch or farm work. Do you have time for that? Even I don’t! Not to mention they were trained to herd! That is their job. Do you have small children or other pets who will not appreciate this behavior? 

Be realistic about your lifestyle and what you can do day in and day out.

• If you already have a pup, it can be a good idea to come back for another visit with your dog to see if they get along. Dog’s don’t have to be best friends right away, but their temperaments should be moderately compatible. 

• A puppy and an older dog can be a mismatch, just as having your aging grandmother watch your toddler every day wouldn’t be very pleasant.

• Two dogs that are status seeking or anxious won’t make life easier. A good rule of thumb for getting a second dog is to pick a dog with equal or lesser energy than the first dog. 

  • Set yourself up for success in the first greeting by walking them together in the same direction on leash for a few minutes before letting them greet or sniff each other. This will help them acclimate a bit and create a calmer greeting than setting them loose in a pen.

It's okay to like a certain look in a dog! I knew I wanted a Hound dog with short hair and floppy ears. I happened to find the right one at the right age and size. Remember, I went to about 10 shelters and fostered two dogs before I found her. Take your time, look around, don't go home with the first dog you see.

Get a dog that is just smart enough. Everyone wants a very, very smart dog, but I can assure you it isn't fun having a partner that questions your every decision or works to intentionally manipulate or circumvent you. My favorite dog is juuuust smart enough to learn the rules, but doesn't have a strong desire to break them. Find a dog that is eager to please versus one that is more aloof and independent.

It can be smart to do a foster to adopt so you get a sense of how the dog will be in your home. When I did that, I was able to determine that  a very shy dog who was scared of men that I loved the look of wouldn't have a happy life with me, because I knew I wanted a dog I could take anywhere. There is a perfect home for every dog, and for that one, my home wasn't it. 

Know that it takes a few weeks or months for a dog to settle in and get comfortable enough to show their true colors, so what you see the first day isn't always what you get.

I recommend most people adopt a slightly older dog. 2-3 is a great age! It's a wonderful thing to adopt an adult dog (5+). These dogs sit longer in the shelter and can still share many good years with you. Don't worry about an older dog having baggage, many dogs are in the shelter through no fault of their own and adjust very quickly in a new situation with the right guidance.

Speaking of guidance, hire a dog trainer! I LOVE clients who call me in the week they get a dog so they can get out on the right foot. It's easier to prevent mistakes than to fix them. 

For instance, when you first bring your dog home, don't shower them with attention and stay home with them 24/7. Get a crate the day your dog comes home and leave for at least a few minutes, if not longer, the very first day. That is what life will be like, with you coming and going, so best to start out showing your dog what is normal and letting them acclimate to that. 

I like to let a dog do their own thing the first few days in my home and not put too much attention on them while they explore and get comfortable. A good rule is that I want my dog to look to me more than I look to them, even though I am keeping tabs on them pretty much all the time with my peripheral vision. I don’t force a dog to interact or immediately be my best friend. In fact, too much attention or letting my dog on the furniture right away can set the wrong tone. 

This is explained more thoroughly  in my training sessions!

Much of dog training is counter-intuitive. Dog culture is different from our human culture and what is polite or impolite in each of these cultures can be the reverse, leading to miscommunications and sometimes, larger and more serious issues.

Be sure to take your time once your dog comes home. Many new owners are in a rush to get their dog out of the crate, take their dog to a patio, a dog park, or teach them to go off leash. All of this should wait a few weeks, months, or even years! You will have many, many great years together. I have never gone wrong going too slow with a dog, but I have definitely made mistakes going too fast.

If the dog you brought home ends up not being a good fit and is making your life unmanageable or causing you stress, you should not feel guilty about bringing them back or working to rehome them. Calling a trainer can help, but sometimes it truly isn’t the right fit. Let this dog find their right owner versus having both your and their quality of life diminished. People feel very very bad about this and end up living in what I see as a truly awful situation for both dog and owner. This stigma makes me sad. There are a lot of ridiculous reasons to give away a pet, but there are some really good ones. Some of the dogs in our pack had been rehomed and their personality, as well as their lives, changed for the better.

Good luck in your adoption journey! With so many dogs needing homes, it is a really wonderful thing.

Picking the best food for your dog

Try on this perspective on today’s dog food industry. Imagine if you woke up 50 years from now and your child was feeding your grandchild something called 'kid food,’ essentially cereal. Like today, there are many brands of cereal with different flavors and recipes and claims to nutrition and quality. So your child asks you what is the best 'kid food' to feed your grandchild, because the Kashi of kid food is the healthiest, but his child prefers the Frosted Flakes of kid food, which claims to have daily vitamins, but is full of sugar. You would think, “what the heck! Don't feed your kids that and only that. That isn't all kids are supposed to be eating!” This is the current state of dog food. Dog’s are not designed to eat a diet of only cooked food and all kibble is cooked. It also is augmented with filler ingredients other than animal protein that are not healthy for dogs to have a daily basis. While some people argue that they can digest it, therefore it’s an appropriate diet, to that I reply that just because I CAN digest McDonald’s, doesn’t mean I should, and certainly not on a daily basis.

Zoe switched to raw right after Haley joined the team and she never looked back

The modern concept of dog food began after World War II, before which dogs ate a combination of table scraps and scraps from the butcher. During this period, many pet dogs were put out during the day and allowed to wander, therefore, kill small prey or scavenge to supplement their diet. During WWII, tin was rationed, which put a stop to dog food canning. In an effort to keep factories productive after the war, dog food made from meat byproduct and cheap fillers that could be dried and bagged was the perfect answer to meet this commercial and industrial need. This type of feeding was easier and more palatable for pet owners, who traditionally don’t enjoy handling the raw meat and organs that dogs need. The smell of kibble has actually been scientifically balanced to find the perfect balance between a rancid enough to entice dogs and a palatable enough for humans to stomach and to keep in their homes.

The design of dog food has evolved to meet the desires of dog owners, which is now gravitating towards people’s limited knowledge of the benefit of raw food. Unfortunately, this lures owners with limited education into a false sense of doing what is best for their dogs. Unlike what the salesman at even the best pet store will tell you, raw food and kibble utilize very different digestive processes and should never be mixed. Not in the same day, not in the same diet, not ever. A proper diet must be only raw or only kibble, with canned food only being fed when prescribed by the vet for short term treatment of digestive issues or not at all.

How to tell if your food is good
Just like humans, a dog should be regularly having healthy, solid bowl movements. A dog’s stool is the best indicator of the quality of their food and how well it is agreeing with them. You don’t want your dog’s poo to be too large for the size of your dog, fluffy or soft (like frozen yogurt), uniformly shaped (like a sausage), stinky, acidic, frequent or too light or dark in color. The more fillers a dog food has, the more metabolically expensive it can be for your dog - the energy that it takes to digest and process their low quality food can negate it’s limited nutritional benefits. When nutrition is limited, a dog’s body will stop nourishing the less essential organs, such as eyes, ears, skin, and coat. When your dog has abundant nutrition, you will notice that their coat becomes incredibly soft and shiny, their ears cleaner.

Rules of thumb for buying kibble
Start at a pet store. If you can buy dog food at the grocery store, price will be cheap and the quality will be poor. Pet food should only be purchased at a pet store, ideally one that will take back a partially full bag as you try to find a food that is the right fit for your dog. Don’t be seduced into buying treats or raw toppers, those don’t align with my understanding of the canine digestive process. I don’t feed my dog any food outside of a full meal. Dogs are not designed to snack and one bite of food produces a meals worth of acid. Instead, dogs are designed to fast, eating only when they are able to kill or scavenge instead of on a regular feeding schedule. At all costs avoid any food with food coloring. Science Diet is the lowest possible quality and not only should you not purchase it, but you should avoid doing business with any vet who sells it as they value brand funding over your animal’s health. It is important to know that vets, just like pet store employees, do not receive a comprehensive education in nutrition. They will often caution against feeding raw because of the potential liability. To that I would counter that dog foods have had many recalls over the years, but how many recalls have there been for human grade chicken or other meats? While humans are protected from parasites and bacteria in meat by cooking our food, our dogs have stomach acid that is 10 times stronger than ours. The same way they can eat carrion that is beginning to decay and not get sick, they can eat raw meat in a way that isn’t safe for a human to do.

When feeding dry food, it is important not to free feed, leaving a bowl down all day and giving your dog a choice about when and how much to eat. Our dog’s stomachs are not designed to snack, but rather eat and fast. Because kibble isn’t an ideal food source, it make’s your dog’s stomach too acidic, requiring them to eat twice a day to keep their stomach bile at bay. We have all had a dog puke up foul smelling yellow foam if a meal is late. When you free feed, you create a stomach environment that is consistently far too acidic. There is nothing wrong with a dog skipping a meal and waiting until the next one! It’s natural for dogs to self fast and can be very healthy, the same way I skip meals or eat light some days. Free feeding has even been linked to a shorter life span. This is why I recommend leaving food down for 15 minutes then picking it up until the next meal, regardless of how much my dog eats. If your dog is chronically disinterested in their food, they don’t like it or it doesn’t make them feel good and you need to find a different one. Imagine if you had to eat a brand of cereal you hated for every meal and couldn’t communicate with your owner how much you didn’t like it? Best to err on the side of caution and transition to something different.

Kibble Recommendations

Open Farm (This is my number one choice and the brand I ask everyone to switch to if their food isn’t working)
•Instinct
•Merrick
•Merrick wild freeze dried raw infused
•Canidae
•Wellness
•Wellness Core
•Fromm
•Natural Balance
•Zignature

Dehydrated

Small Batch

Fresh Food

Just Food for Pets

Switching foods
When you try a new dry food, it is important to switch foods slowly. Some dogs with iron stomachs can tolerate a quick switch, but it is safest to switch slowly. Feeding each for two days: 1/8th, 1/4th, 1/2th, 3/4th of the new food until your dog is fully switched over. Your dog’s poo may be less that ideal during the transition if they are very sensitive, but ideally should balance out within a week to solid, contoured, and healthy looking.

When selecting a brand, do research online, but know that there is an evolution in quality within brands over time. Orijin and Merrick were two of my favorite foods until their popularity led to one of them being purchased by Purina, who promptly raised prices and lowered quality to the point where I stopped recommending them. How could I tell? The poo of the dog’s who were on those foods degraded to a level where I could tell their stomach were unhappy and the food was being padded with fillers. Fillers are nutritionally costly to a dog and can use more metabolic energy to push through the digestive process than is offset by the limited nutrition contained in the food.

Feeding Raw
Frozen pre-packaged raw food has become a popular option for owners who understand the benefits of going raw. These foods are expensive, easy and not quite completely sound from a raw perspective. These prepackaged bags can be a part of raw food, but are not a complete diet as they lack the bone that is an important source of fiber, jaw exercise and teeth cleaning that dog’s need. Raw bone, unlike cooked, is incredibly healthy for dogs and an essential part of the raw diet. Cooked bones, as most of us know, are dangerous for dogs as they are apt to splinter when being chewed and can even puncture their intestines. Raw bones, on the other hand, are healthy, safe and they provide natural exercise for a dog’s jaw and even help to keep teeth clean!

When transitioning, I fast my dog for a full 24 hours and make the switch completely, not feeling kibble again unless I am fully switching back. Begin by feeding one meat source only. I like to start with a chicken drumstick, thigh or back as chicken is easily digested and the bones are soft and easy to chew. After a day of fasting, most dogs are happy to be presented with raw meat for the first time in their life. They will start by licking it to begin breaking down the muscle, then chewing it, intuitively knowing how to consume whole meat. Some owners are concerned about giving their dog such a primal food source, but watching a dog eat their first piece of chicken is amazing and exciting. In a life that is mostly civilized, it is a rare opportunity to see your dog’s animal nature in action.

Porter never had a normal poo in his life till he got on raw food. Now he is healthy and can run all day to his hearts content!

How much to feed
Picking the amount of food per day is trial and error. Shoot to feed 2-3% of your dog’s ideal body weight. My 12lb Dachshund eats a drumstick or one puck consisting of a bone, red muscle meat, organ combination that I get from the farmers market with enzymes and probiotic sprinkled on top. A 50lb dog who is getting substantial exercise will eat two chicken quarters a day, fed at once or split into two meals a day. I alternate between the bone in meat and pucks, feeding more when my dog looks skinny and less when she starts to lose her hourglass dip near her hips.

For raw, each meal should ideally be 65% muscle meat, 20% bone, 10% heart, 5% liver. Their general diet also contains 65% boned meat, such as chicken legs, backs and lamb necks for example. Suggested meat progressions when starting out on raw are chicken backs, chicken drumsticks or quarters, turkey necks, pork, fish canned in water such as salmon or mackerel or raw fish, lamb and beef. After a month, add in some organ meat like organic hearts, livers and kidneys. It’s important to get livers organic as they process what the conventionally raised animals are fed, which are not chemicals we want in our pets. It is also a good idea to introduce egg including the shell, garlic, apple cider vinegar, yogurt and leftovers from the fridge that you would eat yourself, not scraps of overly fatty meat, as well as some cooked or raw vegetables.

Raw poo
After an initial adjustment in their digestive process, your dog’s poo should be smaller, denser and break down into a white powder, unlike the poo of conventionally fed dogs, which do not break down over time, another red flag on their quality that even the flies don’t want to eat it. If your dog’s poo is too loose, add more bone. If it’s too dry or your dog is straining to get it out, add more muscle meat. Too much bone can cause constipation and the surplus of calcium can block the absorption of other nutrients. When my dog was on kibble I needed to pay to have her anal glands expressed and they now express naturally in the process of moving her firm, raw bowels.

Types of bones
Raw meaty bones (RMBs) that are large, inedible and have a small amount of meat, marrow and cartilage on them are a great form of recreation for your dog. I always have a bag in my freezer that I rinse under water and throw outside for my dog to enjoy. These bones are best purchased from a butcher, ethnic market or raw feeding cooperative as they will be much cheaper from those sources than from the pet store. These bones can be marrow, soup or knuckle. RMBs are gnawed on, not consumed and have little meat. Bones that can be fed and consumed include chicken necks, backs, and leg quarters; turkey necks; lamb breast and necks; pork breast (riblets) and necks; and canned fish with bones, such as jack mackerel, pink salmon, and sardines (packed in water rather than oil).

The bones that can be consumed should make up 30 to 50 percent (one third to one half) of the total diet, or possibly a little more if the parts you feed have a great deal more meat than bone (e.g., whole chickens or rabbits). The natural diet of the wolf in the wild contains 15 percent bone or less, based on the amount of edible bone in the large prey they feed upon. While a reasonable amount more won’t harm an adult dog, it’s not needed and reduces the amount of other valuable foods that can be fed.

Transitioning
This philosophy of feeding is referred to as the Whole Prey Model and is designed to mimic the experience of eating a whole animal that was caught and killed. While it may seem intimidating at first, feeding raw is quite easy and intuitive for both owner and dog. While your dog may have an initial ‘healing crisis’ that involves a dip of health now that they have a stable and nutritious diet and can address some chronic by minor health issues. After three months, your dog will show signs of abundant nutrition in their coat, eyes and ears. When strangers remark on how soft their coat is you will know you are there!

Big dogs eat raw too! It’s worth every penny to see your dog vitally healthy.

There are very few dogs who do not do well on a raw diet, or even more rare, don’t like it. It is important to approach it exactly the way I describe and not be seduced into going back to kibble as your dog adjusts their palate. For the first three days, offer a drumstick or bowl of meat mix twice a day, trying to find their preferred protein and favorite time to dine. If they don’t eat, simply pick it up and wait till the next meal. No dog will let themselves starve and the more stubborn pups need a bit more incentivizing to try something new. If after 3 days of fasting your dog still refuses to eat, try a different food source or go back to the best quality kibble you can find.

After a few months you should have a good sense of how much your dog eats, what types of proteins agree with them and what cuts of meat they prefer. This will help guide you in what and how much to purchase, but does take time to figure out. Utilizing the freezer helps ensure that nothing goes bad, although dogs can safely eat meat that is slightly beyond consumable for a human.

Feeding raw in Austin
I like to start out with a package of drumsticks or chicken quarters from the grocery store. I put 3-4 in a baggie, leaving one bag out in the fridge and freezing the rest. If you would like to buy in bulk, place an order with East Side Poultry. I let the box of meat defrost then separate and freeze it in baggies. Then I don’t have to worry about it for another month or two. For dogs, defrosting and refreezing meat is no problem as they will not turn their nose up at the texture.

For the pucks, I order from Jake and Blue, which now has home delivery as well as a stall at a farmers market. Be sure to get ground bone as the pucks can create loose poo and need that extra fiber to be added. We also order marrow bones from them to feed as a treat. I love the quality and these pucks seem to keep my dog more full than the grocery store brands, although some clients are happy on brands like Northeast Naturals available at Bark and Purr or Hollywood Feed.

There is another delivery service called Texas Tripe that drives through Austin once a month so owners can collect bulk amounts of meat. I used to buy their tripe and meat mix tubes, bulk boxes of chicken parts and bones.

There is a local raw feeding collective, ARF, but they require a monthly volunteer shift in order to have access to their collectively purchased meat sources so be ready to jump in with both feet!

Lucy loving raw life

I’m excited for you to start your dog food journey! Remember to move slowly when changing and supplementing your dog’s diet and follow my recommendations as closely as possible. This isn’t an area where there is much room for creativity. Imformation available from vets, pet stores and online articles will be confusing and contradictory, but after a decade of feeding my dog raw and helping owners transition to the raw diet, this post is a comprehensive guide for what I know to be true and effective. Just ask Harley! She is going strong after a decade and gets compliments on her soft coat and vitality all the time.

Like a dog with a marrow bone